Originally published: May 28, 2017 — Updated: September 19, 2025
Elizabethan Orange Marmalade – From Hannah Woolley’s Queen-like Closet (1675)
Historical Context
This recipe comes from Hannah Woolley (1622–1675), one of the first Englishwomen to publish cookery and household books under her own name. Her Queen-like Closet (1675) offered not only food recipes but also remedies, preserving techniques, and domestic advice. Orange marmalade, recipe LXXXVI, is one of her standout entries, and I’ve been itching to try it for years. When I found a pile of blood oranges on clearance, that was my excuse. No pressure, right? 😊
Marmalade in England: The word “marmalade” originally meant a quince paste (marmelada) from Portugal. By the late 16th century, imported Seville oranges became the fruit of choice for marmalade. These bitter oranges, full of pectin, set well and gave a sharp tang. Woolley specifies “deepest coloured oranges,” and while she probably meant Sevilles, I used blood oranges—sweeter and ruby-red. Everyone who tasted my batch loved it, but it is sweeter than a true bitter-orange preserve would have been.
Cultural Notes
- Cost of Oranges: In Woolley’s day, oranges were still a luxury. A pound could cost as much as a laborer’s daily wage. To serve marmalade at table was as much a statement of wealth as it was hospitality.
- Orangeries: Wealthy households began building “orangeries”—brick or glass houses to protect citrus trees through the English winter. Having one was as fashionable as wearing pearls. Preserves like marmalade were an edible extension of that prestige.
- Sugar as Luxury: Sugar came in loaves, had to be clarified, and was still expensive in the 17th century. It was considered medicinal as much as culinary. Combining oranges and sugar meant this marmalade straddled the line between health remedy and confection.
- Storage: Woolley instructs to “put it up in gally-pots.” These were small glazed jars sealed with paper, leather, or wax. Unlike our modern sealed canning jars, period marmalade wasn’t shelf-stable for years—it was eaten within months.
In the 16th–17th centuries, both oranges and sugar were expensive luxuries. A pound of imported oranges could cost as much as a day’s wage for a laborer, and sugar came in hard loaves that had to be chipped and clarified. Serving marmalade wasn’t just a treat — it was a visible display of wealth and refinement.
🍽️ Menu Placement & Humoral Theory
Marmalade and fruit preserves were served at the banquet course—a light, sweet table after the heavy meats. Oranges were considered cold and dry, while sugar and apples were warm and moist. Together, they made a more balanced food, thought to help digestion at the end of a feast.
The Original Recipe
| Queen-like Closet (1675) | Modernized Text |
|---|---|
|
LXXXVI. To make the best Orange Marmalade. Take the Rinds of the deepest coloured Oranges, boil them in several Waters till they are very tender, then mince them small, and to one pound of Oranges, take a Pound of Pippins cut small, one Pound of the finest Sugar, and one Pint of Spring-water, me't your Sugar in the Water over the fire, and scum it, then put in your Pippins, and boil them till they are very clear, then put in the Orange Rind, and boil them together, til you find by cooling a little of it, that it wil jelly very well, then put in the Iuice of two Oranges, and one Limon, and boil it a little longer; and then put it up in Gally-pots. |
To make the best Orange Marmalade: Take the rinds of the deepest-colored oranges. Boil them in several changes of water until very tender, then mince them small. For each pound of orange rind, take a pound of pippins (apples), a pound of fine sugar, and a pint of spring water. Melt the sugar in the water over the fire and skim it. Add the apples and boil until clear. Add the orange rind and continue boiling until it will set like jelly when cooled. Then add the juice of two oranges and one lemon. Boil a little longer, then put into jars. |
Interpreted Recipe (Modern Version)
- 1 pound orange peel (about 2 cups minced after boiling)
- 1 pound (2 cups) unsweetened applesauce (substitute for pippins)
- 1 pound sugar
- 2 cups water
- Juice of 2 oranges
- Juice of 1 lemon
Yield: About 4 (8 oz) jelly jars
Method
- Cut peels into strips. Boil in water 2–3 times, changing the water, until bitterness is reduced and peels are fork-tender (15–20 minutes). I usually give them two quick boils of five minutes each, then one longer boil until tender.
- Drain, cool, and mince finely. When I measured mine, I had about 2 cups of peel.
- In a pot, combine applesauce, sugar, and water. Heat until the sugar dissolves, then add the minced peel.
- Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly. You’ll know it’s nearly ready when the spoon leaves a trail behind it and hot drops spatter and set on impact. My digital thermometer only read 214°F (short of the “jelly stage”), but it was clearly done.
- Add orange and lemon juice. Boil 5 minutes more, then jar and seal as desired. I ended up with 4 jars and had to fight off my testers from eating it all right away!
🥕 Dietary Notes
- Vegetarian ✅
- Vegan ✅ (use certified vegan sugar if strict)
- Gluten-Free ✅
- Allergen-friendly: contains no dairy, eggs, or nuts
Serving & Presentation
I recommend serving marmalade at a feast with bread, cheese, or small cakes. For presentation, I love the look of an olive wood honey pot with a matching olive wood tasting spoon. It’s rustic, elegant, and not far off from the simple containers used in period. For largesse, properly jarred marmalade makes a beautiful gift.
Of Interest
- Seville vs. Blood Oranges: Seville oranges (bitter, high-pectin) were the period standard. Using blood or navel oranges makes for a sweeter preserve.
- Set & Texture: Don’t expect a firm commercial “sliceable” marmalade. Period marmalades and jellies were softer, spoonable, and sometimes even syrupy.
- Flavor Balance: If your marmalade tastes sweeter than you expect, that’s because most modern oranges are bred for sweetness, not bitterness.
Sources
- Hannah Woolley, The Queen-like Closet (1675). EEBO facsimile.
- Alan Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food, s.v. “Marmalade.”
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment on this blog. Please note blatant advertisements will be marked as spam and deleted during the review.
Anonymous posting is discouraged.
Happy Cooking!
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.