Apple & Blackberry Tartlets
“I could eat anything in the wide world now… but not an apple!” — Fili
Rustic tartlets brimming with orchard apples and hedgerow blackberries, glossed with a spoon of jam. They’re simple, juicy, and very Shire-coded.
Showing posts with label Fruit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fruit. Show all posts
Uva in Salamoia – Pickled Grapes for a Renaissance Antipasto
Uva in Salamoia – Renaissance Pickled Grapes
🥕 Gluten-free, vegetarian (vegan if sugar is bone-char free)
Pickled grapes ready to be served
In Renaissance kitchens, grapes were often served fresh, described by color (white or black), and used for sweet or savory contrast. This recipe, though not found in Scappi or Domenico Romoli directly, draws on 17th-century English and Italian preservation methods to create a sweet-sour pickled grape that pairs beautifully with rich dishes like crostata, cheese, or roasted meats.
Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen
🍯 Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen
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| Honeyed Struffoli with Candied Fruit, Served with Marzipan at the 12th Night 2024 Feast A modern interpretation of Scappi’s 16th-century recipe, these golden morsels were served as part of the appetizer selection. |
As part of the 12th Night 2024 feast, guests were greeted with beautiful trays of struffoli — crisp, golden morsels glazed in warm honey and crowned with jeweled candied fruit. This appetizer, adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 16th-century cookbook Opera, captures the festive spirit and elegant artistry of Renaissance banquet tables.
🍽️ Explore the Full Feast: See the complete 12th Night 2024 Menu to discover other historical dishes served during the event.
Scappi was a master cook to Pope Pius V, and his recipes reflect the sophistication of high court cuisine in Italy. These honeyed fritters, served cold, would have dazzled diners with their texture and ornamentation. The original text appears in Libro Quinto, Cap. CXXXV, and can be found in resources like Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina.
Scappi’s Original Italian (Cap. CXXXV):
Attanfi dieci oua fresche nate di quel giorno, & impastinsicon esse fior di farina alquanto piu liquida della fopradetta, & per fpatio di mezz’horasia ben rimenata sopra la tauola, & poi distendasi essa pasta in ruotoli sottili, come se si volesse fare ciambellette...
...con un coltello si taglierà e i ruotoli a dadi, & tagliati che saranno in gran numero, si lasceranno alquanto rasciugare, & poi con strutto che non sia troppo caldo, si friggeranno, avvertendo che non piglino troppo colore, & con la cocchiara forata cavisino, e si lascino scolare, poi habbisi una cazzuola con mele schiumato che sia ben caldo, & frigghifino in esso mele, dandoli una volta, & subito si cavino, & cavati che saranno, faccinsene castelli, & altre fantafie, & servinofreddi.
🍋 Modern Recipe: Honeyed Struffoli (Serves 8)
This version of struffoli preserves the festive spirit of Scappi's recipe while adapting it for a modern kitchen. These delightful bites can be made ahead and assembled just before serving.
Ingredients
- 2⅔ cups flour
- 4½ tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Pinch of salt
- 2 medium eggs
- ⅔ cup sugar
- Zest of 1 orange
- Zest of ½ lemon
For Garnish
- 1⅓ cups honey
- Silver or gold sprinkles
- Candied cherries
- Candied orange peel
Instructions
- In a large bowl, combine flour, softened butter, salt, sugar, citrus zest, lemon juice, and eggs. Mix vigorously by hand until a rough dough forms.
- Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
- After chilling, divide dough into 1 cm wide ropes and roll out. Cut into small pieces, about ⅓ inch in size.
- Heat oil to 325°F. Fry pieces in small batches until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
- Warm honey gently in a pan. Add the fried pieces and stir to coat.
- Arrange on a platter in a mound or ring. Garnish with sprinkles and candied fruit. Serve at room temperature.
Storage Tip: Fried dough can be made up to 2–3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container and glaze with honey just before serving.
🧾 Translating Scappi: Then vs. Now
Scappi’s original recipe begins with a rich dough made from “ten fresh eggs of the day,” kneaded with fine flour until soft and elastic. Our modern version keeps the egg-based richness, but scales it for today’s kitchens—using two eggs along with butter and citrus for added aroma and softness.
Scappi instructs the cook to roll and cut the dough into “dadi” (dice), which are dried slightly and then fried in strutto (pork fat). We preserve the shape and technique but fry in neutral oil at 325°F for ease and availability. Once cooked, the pieces are tossed in “skimmed honey,” a process mirrored in our version by gently warming the honey and folding the fritters in until glazed. His final flourish—stacking the morsels into “castles and other fancies”—is echoed in our presentation, topped with candied fruit and festive sprinkles.
📚 Inspiration
This recipe was inspired by La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli and Scappi’s Opera, foundational texts in Renaissance culinary tradition.
Try Another Dish from the Feast: Don’t miss our recipe for Tortelletti d’Herba alla Lombarda, a savory herb-filled pasta that accompanied these sweet fritters at the table.
Tags: 12th Night, SCA Feast, Historical Recipes, Renaissance Cooking, Bartolomeo Scappi, Medieval Appetizer, Struffoli, Italian Holiday Food
Revisiting Quince: A Medieval Fruit with Modern Flavor
Revisiting Quince: History, Recipes, and Rediscovery
What it is, why it matters, and how to cook with it today—plus links to historical quince recipes!
I. Introduction
In 2014, we explored quince for the first time on this blog. The Kitchen Adventures - Working with Quince, was one of the first articles I published. Now, with years of experimentation behind us and a growing archive of recipes, we're returning to this fragrant fruit to dig deeper into its history, flavor, and role in historical cuisine.
Quince is a fruit both ancient and enigmatic—celebrated in antiquity, prized in the medieval kitchen, and curiously underused today. Its transformation through cooking is nothing short of alchemy: from rock-hard and mouth-puckering to melting, fragrant, and complex. This article revives quince in all its golden glory—offering techniques, tips, and historical insight to make it relevant for your table again.
II. What Is Quince?
Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a member of the Rosaceae family, which includes apples, pears, and roses. Though too astringent to eat raw, quince undergoes a remarkable transformation when cooked—its firm flesh softens, its pale color deepens into a rosy amber, and its aroma fills the kitchen with a delicate perfume. Often considered the forgotten cousin of the apple, quince is nuanced, elegant, and quietly captivating.
III. A Long History of Love
Quince has charmed cultures for centuries. Dioscorides praised it in the first century, and it appeared frequently in medieval and Renaissance manuscripts in various forms: poached in honey, preserved with vinegar and spices, or simmered into thick, rich pastes. Known to the Greeks as the "Cydonian apple," quince was later featured in English recipes as chardequynce or quynade—early iterations of modern fruit jellies and marmalades.
Quince in Classical Medicine and Lore
Quinces were praised by herbalists and physicians across antiquity and the Middle Ages. Dioscorides recommended placing peeled quinces in a jar filled with honey, where they would soften into a medicinal treat over the course of a year—this method, called melomeli, was said to settle the stomach.
The Greeks called them kythoni, and Roman authors like Galen categorized quinces as cold and dry in nature. In medieval herbals like Henry Lyte’s 1578 translation of A Nievve Herball, quinces were described in detail: they could "stop the laske," soothe dysentery, prevent headaches from "vapors," and even ensure wise children if eaten during pregnancy.
Dodoens noted two varieties—apple and pear quinces—with the pear-shaped being larger. He described the scent as so fragrant that once the downy skin was removed, they appeared “as yellow as gold.”
Preservation Through Time: From Melomeli to Marmalade
Long before the term “marmalade” came to mean citrus jam, preserved quince was the original treat. Various names and techniques survive in recipes from the 1st to 16th centuries:
- Melomeli: Quince aged in honey for a year, per Dioscorides (1st c.).
- Cidonitum: A Roman and Byzantine jelly with vinegar, honey, ginger, and pepper.
- Chardequynce: A late medieval spiced paste of quince, honey, and ginger—eventually giving way to early marmalades and membrillo.
How to Make Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)
Chardequynce was once served alongside cheese, meats, or at the close of a feast. It's made from cooked quince purée, honey, and warming spices—sometimes including eringo root (sea holly), considered an aphrodisiac in humoral medicine.
Teaser recipe: Simmer peeled, quartered quince until soft. Mash, strain, and cook with honey until thick enough to hold a furrow when stirred. Add ground ginger and (optionally) eringo. Spread into pans to dry. For full instructions, see: Of Quince, Its Nature and Virtues.
📜 Printable Recipe: Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)
Yield: 1 tray of sliced quince paste (stores indefinitely)
Ingredients:
- 1 lb quince – peeled, quartered, seeds removed
- 12 oz honey (or sugar)
- 2¼ tsp chopped ginger
- 1½ tbsp ground ginger
- ¼ lb eringo root powder (optional)
Instructions:
- Place quince pieces in a pot with just enough water to cover. Simmer until soft.
- Strain and mash or purée fruit. (Save cooking water, seeds, and peels for jelly.)
- Return pulp to pot. Stir in honey and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until thickened—about 45 minutes.
- Optional: Stir off heat until the paste lightens in color.
- Mix in chopped ginger, ground ginger, and optional eringo root powder.
- Spread onto a parchment-lined tray or pan and allow to dry in a cool place for 3–4 weeks.
- Slice and serve with cheese or as part of a final course.
Note: If you can't find eringo root, substitute with an additional teaspoon of fresh ginger or a few teaspoons of chopped candied angelica or fennel for a similar effect. Or simply omit—it will still taste delicious.
Historical Note: Based on 16th c. English and earlier Greek/Byzantine quince paste traditions. Traditionally stored in wooden boxes or wrapped in oiled paper.
Enhancing and Using Quince in Modern Cooking
Quince is a fragrant, complex fruit that transforms dramatically when cooked. Though it's traditionally used in jams and pastes, quince can shine in a wide variety of savory and sweet applications—when treated with the proper techniques.
Best Cooking Techniques to Enhance Quince Flavor
- Poaching (Slow Simmering)
Simmer peeled, sliced quince in water, sugar, and optional aromatics for 1–2 hours.
Result: Tender, floral, honeyed slices of fruit with a silky texture. - Roasting
Slice and roast quince with honey or butter at 375°F (190°C) for 45–60 minutes.
Result: Caramelized, aromatic fruit perfect for savory pairings. - Braising
Add to braised meat dishes during the final hour.
Result: Quince soaks up savory juices and lends fragrance to the dish. - Pickling
Briefly simmer in vinegar brine; chill before using.
Result: Tart, firm quince for salads or cheese boards.
Modern Applications Beyond Sweets
- Cheese Boards: Pair membrillo with Manchego or blue cheese.
- Glazes & Sauces: Reduce quince poaching syrup for pork or duck.
- Salads & Slaws: Use pickled quince in bitter greens and mustard dressings.
- Grain Bowls: Mix roasted quince into farro, lentils, or barley with herbs.
- Tagines: Add quince to North African stews with lamb, saffron, and cinnamon.
Excellent Pairings to Showcase Quince's Unique Flavor
- Cheese: Manchego, Comté, Gorgonzola, Goat Cheese
- Meat: Duck, Pork, Lamb, Game Meats
- Spices: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Ginger, Star Anise, Saffron
- Fruits/Veg: Apples, Pears, Citrus, Beets, Carrots
Want to make your own?
You can download and print our free recipe card for Chardequynce—a spiced quince paste from the 16th century. Made with honey, ginger, and (optionally) eringo root, it keeps beautifully and pairs with cheese or roasted meats.
More Historic Quince Recipes:
- Quince-Infused Marzipan
- Apples Stewed with Quince and Pignoli Nuts
- Quynade (almond milk cheese flavored with quince)
- Quidinia (Quince Jelly)
- Of Quince: Its Nature and Virtues
Resources & Historical Notes
Primary Sources
- Dioscorides – De Materia Medica
- Harleian MS. 279
- Rembert Dodoens – A Nievve Herball (1578, trans. Henry Lyte)
Reference Texts
- Hieatt, C.B. – The Culinary Recipes of Medieval England
- Wilson, C. – The Book of Marmalade
- Austin, T. – Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books
Want More?
Explore more historical recipes and culinary lore under these tags:
Fruit |
Confections and Dessert |
Jellies and Gelatin
Kitchen Adventures – Apples (Quince) stewed with pine nuts, rosewater and sugar - Chiquart / Domenico ((Italian) Mele cotogne, stufate pignoli con acqua rosa, & zuccaro)
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Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati- To make pizza of many layers, commonly called a cold dry layered pastry. - Scappi & Mele cotogne, stufate pignoli con acqua rosa, & zuccaro - Apples (Quince) stewed with pine nuts, rosewater and sugar - Chiquart / Domenico prepared to be served.
Researching medieval cuisine is like stepping into a time machine. By reviving these historic recipes, we unearth culinary traditions that continue to surprise and inspire us today. One dish that stands out is Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa e Zuccaro—a unique blend of stewed Quince with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar. This dish is mentioned in many of the menus provided by M. Domenico, yet it seems to have slipped through the cracks without specific written instructions.
Naturally, I had to take on the challenge to recreate this intriguing sounding dish which was prepared for our Baronial 12th Night Celebration in 2024. As mentioned in previous posts, the menu for the event was drawn from M. Domenico's "Singular Doctrine", and more specifically his "Banquet of the Month of January. I cannot stress enough how much I enjoyed researching and then recreating dishes that woul dhave been enjoyed during this time.
The Singular Doctrine of M. Domenico is a 16th-century Italian culinary text that presents elaborate monthly menus, daily meal plans for morning and evening, a listing of common foods of the time, and instructions on the best ways to prepare them. However, while the text includes detailed menu listings, many of the actual recipes are absent. One such example is Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa, & Zuccaro, which appears in numerous menus but is never explicitly written out. The omission of these instructions suggests that certain preparations were considered basic knowledge among cooks of the period. This absence hints that stewed quince was a well-established culinary staple, so familiar that formal documentation of its preparation was deemed unnecessary.
To bring this dish back to life, I turned to a similar medieval recipe—Chiquart's Spiced Apples and Pears from On Cookery (1420). Chiquart was a 15th-century master cook who served at the court of Amadeus VIII, Duke of Savoy. He is best known for his work Du fait de cuisine (On Cookery), written in 1420, which provides one of the most detailed accounts of medieval European culinary practices. His text includes elaborate feast preparations, ingredient lists, and cooking techniques, offering insight into the refined and sometimes extravagant cuisine of noble households. His emphasis on spice blends, slow-cooked fruits, and carefully balanced flavors makes his work a valuable resource for understanding medieval gastronomy. His approach is an exemplary foundation for reviving Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa e Zuccaro.
Ingredients
2 tbsp. butter
4 tart green apples / or quinces
4 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. pine nuts
2 tsp. raisins
1/4 cup quince preserves
1 tsp. Duke's Powder, or Apple or Pumpking Pie spices
Instructions:
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a baking dish that is large enough to hold your apples (or quinces). Cut your quinces or apples in half, and remove the core. The opening should be approximately 1 inch wide.
2. Mix pine nuts with the spices. Spoon sugar, pine nuts and raisins into each hole filling the apple or quince, and top with a bit more butter. Pour water or wine into the bottom of the baking dish. Sprinkle around any additional sugar, spices around the fruit. If using apples, supplement with a generous helping of the quince preserves.
3. Bake the fruit until the fruit is easily pierced by a knife approximately 45 minutes. Sprinkle with rosewater.
Please Note: This dish can be served warm or room temperature. If made ahead, it will need to be heated enough to melt the butter. Also note, pine nuts can be toasted before being mixed with the spices, but I chose not to do this.
Results:
I made this dish using apples because I was unable to locate quinces at the time. You could also substitute pears, or a mix of apples and pears. This dish is magical! Fragrant of roses, apples, quince, the warm spices, sweet from the sugar, and crunchy from the pine nuts. Using quince jelly when no quince are available enhances the apples natural tartness, while incorporating the period flavor that the original recipe calls for. If you wish to, use a sweet Italian dessert wine instead of water to further enhance the dish.
Sources:
Friedman, David D., translator. Du fait de cuisine. 15th century. The David D. Friedman Medieval and Renaissance Cookbook Collection, www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/Du_fait_de_Cuisine.html. Accessed 24 Mar. 2025.
Romo, Domenico. La Singolare Dottrina Di M. Domenico Romano: Trattato di cucina del '500. 1st ed., 2002. Google Books, books.google.com/books/about/La_Singolare_Dottrina_Di_M_Domenico_Romo.html?hl=it&id=FGFWAAAAcAAJ. Accessed 24 Mar. 2025.
🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.
Kitchen Adventures – A delicious marcipan of quince and almonds in a strong flow on a weak stomach ((German) Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem Magen)
Originally published on Patreon Oct 10, 2022
In Anna Wecker’s Köstlich New Kochbuch (1598), this recipe for marzipan made with quince sounds divine, and so it had to be tested. My previous recipe for Marzipan flavored with coriander from A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1621, previously served at a Baronial 12th Night was well received. I had hoped that this would be no different and was eager to try it out.
What is Marzipan?
Marzipan is a confection made from almond paste, egg whites, and sugar. It is one of many dishes known as "banqueting dishes".
What is a Marchpane?
Marchpanes are baked marzipans that can be served with icing and decorated.
What was the banquet?
Similar to desserts that we enjoy today, the "Banquet" began simply as wafers and wines served in a separate room at the end of the meal when guests withdrew from the table. Eventually, this humble course became what we now know as the Banquet, a series of elaborate dishes consisting of pastries, sugar-coated spices, marmalades, fruit preserved in syrup, etc.
What was included in "the Banquet" ?
Thomas Dawson gives a comprehensive list of items in his book "The good husvvifes ievvell" published in 1596
THE NAMES OF ALL thinges necessary for a banquet. 1596
Suger. Pepper. Saffron. Anniseedes. Cinamon. Nutmegs. Saunders. Coliander. Licoras. All kinde of Cumfets. Orenges. Pomegranet. Torneseli. Prunes. Currans. Barberies conserued. Peper white and browne seedes. Lemmons. Rosewater. Raisins. Rie flowre. Ginger. Cloues and Mace. Damaske. water. Dates. Cherries conserued. Sweete Orenges. Wafers. For your Marchpanes seasoned and vnseasoned, Spinndges.
Original Recipe
Translation
Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem MagenA delicious marcipan with quinces and almonds for strong diarrhea and weak stomachs Take nice quinces and steam them with quince juice in a tightly closed pot, or if you do it right they can produce the broth themselves (i.e. can be cooked without adding liquid). When they are nicely soft, remove their skin and take the best of their marrow or flesh so that no stone is added to it. Then take finely ground almonds and clean, bolted sugar as much as there are quinces and almonds. Take the half part of this and boil it into a syrup with rosewater or cinnamon water. Add the flesh of the quinces to this and let it dry or roast in a brass pan together. Then stir it well in a dish and the almonds with it, then place it on a clean table, work in the remaining sugar, and when it is like a gingerbread dough (ein teig zu Lebkuchen), shape it as you like, press in moulds, dry it in a baking oven or a stove (roehrofen). The same way, you may make pears or various kinds from pure quince flesh, or make krapfen (filled fried pastries) of this stuff, but do not work it so it becomes too stiff, leave it nicely soft. You can also fill wafers with it (for fritters).
Let the experimentation begin!
I am trying a new method for cooking my quinces. I cut three quinces in half and placed them into a crockpot with enough apple juice to cover the bottom of the fruit (about 2 ounces). This method will take a few days, but the results I promise you, are worth it!
Set the crockpot on low and allow the quince to cook for several hours. The idea to cook the quince in a crockpot came from a blog post I had found from well-fed, flat broke "crock pot membrillo".
NOTE: I did not add sugar at this point because I want to follow the recipe as exactly as possible and I am not making quince paste.
A short while later...
The quinces smelled very good and were starting to soften but all of the apple juice has been absorbed or cooked off :-/. I added more juice, enough to come about halfway up the fruit, and continued cooking overnight.
DAY 2
Pictured above are the lovely cooked quinces. They cooked in the slow cooker for about six hours. Aren't they beautiful? Heavy, glossy, and starting to break down!? Exactly what you want to see at this point.
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I must have done it right because the pot was full of "juice".
The next step is to remove the skin, seeds, and cores, blitz them to a pulp in the blender and then return the fruit to the crock pot and continue to cook it until it reaches the color you wish. I love a deep garnet-colored paste.
Also, a small correction. I used fresh pressed cloudy apple juice that may sometimes be referred to as apple cider. It is the only juice I drink or use and I don't think a clear juice would have worked as well.
A Delicious Marcipan (Marzipan) with Quinces and Almonds
Ingredients
3 tbsp. cooked quince pulp
3/4 cup + almond flour **
9 tbps. + confectioner sugar **
NOTE: I did not have access to rosewater, but, had I access it, I would have added a tsp or two. Also, the next time I make the fruit, I will be adding cinnamon to it rather than cinnamon oil.
Mix all ingredients together until you get a dough that is similar to medieval gingerbread. Mix two tbsp. almond flour with 1-2 tbsp. confectioner sugar and sprinkle it on your countertop. Roll to approximately 1/4" and cut into shapes. Allow the marzipan to dry in a very low oven.
**Amount may vary depending on how "wet" the quince pulp is. You want to create a dough the consistency of play dough.
Thoughts
It is a lovely taste! You taste the quince, then the almonds, and towards the end of the bite, the flavors mix together and it tastes -almost- like cherries.
This was very easy to make, although it did require a lot of time. I believe I will be cooking my quinces in the crockpot instead of the stovetop in the future. The lower the heat and the longer it cooks the redder it gets.
Additionally - this stores very well in an airtight container. You can also freeze it by wrapping it in parchment paper and then sealing it in a ziplock bag which has had all the air squeezed from it. This made a huge batch of Marzipan. It is almost a year later, and I have the better part of a pound left because I'm stingy with it!
Sources
"Crock Pot Membrillo (Quince Paste).". Well Fed, Flat Broke, 2015, https://wellfedflatbroke.com/2015/09/14/membrillo/. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.
Culina-Vetus.De, 2022, https://www.culina-vetus.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Recipes-from-Anna-Wecker-1598.pdf. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.
"Early English Books Online". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo/A19957.0001.001?type=simple&rgn=full+text&q1=banquet&submit=Go. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.
"'Ein Köstlich New Kochbuch Von Allerhand Speisen, An Gemüsen, Obs, Fleisch, Geflügel, Wildpret, Fischen Vnnd Gebachens : Nicht Allein Vor Gesunde: Sondern Auch Vnd Fürnemlich Vor Krancke, In Allerley Kranckheiten Und Gebresten ...' - Digitalisat | MDZ". Digitale-Sammlungen.De, 2022, https://www.digitale-sammlungen.de/de/view/bsb11111117?page=60,61. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.
Kitchen Adventures – Rediscovering Apple Confection: A Historical Confection found in Anonimo Veneziano
As promised, this is the recipe and research for the picture above. This item was created for Pennsic 50 A&S Warpoint Team. I was chosen as an alternate, to step in if someone who was competing for points was unable to attend.
Original Recipe In Italian - Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare.
Toy la mella e mondala, poy la grata; varda che non vada le granelle dentro la gratitura e lassala sugare per dui iorni. El sucho che fa la mella lassalo pur con la mella; passa le pome gratate e per ogni tri libre de pome meti libre tri de mele e lassale stare dui zorni le pome chomo el mele; poy fale bolire sempre menandole con speçie tanto che le mele sia cocte, abi a mente le spezie voleno essere messe quando l' è quasi cocto el confetto, cossí quelle de chodogni. Poy la distendi suso una tavola o suso una pietra bagnata e fay a modo di foio grosso men de mezzo dido; poy lassala refredare e fane a modo de schachieri in pezetti picholi e reponile in una schatolla con foie de laurano de sotto e poy de sopra dall' altra mano va metando foie de suolo in suolo; e se voi mettere spezie tra foio e foio serà molto bono. Agi a mente ch' el vol per lo men bolire una hora grossa e forsi dui sempre menandole bene e guardale dal fumo.
Original transcription from Libro di cucina/ libro per cuoco (Anonimo veneziano) — Institut für Germanistik (uni-giessen.de)
CXXXII Candied "apio" and paradise apples that are ready immediately, and grated they can be made as you like.
Take apples and peel them, then grate them, watch that there aren’t seeds inside the grated apples, and let them dry for two days. The juice that comes from the apples leave with them, and strain the grated apples, and for every three pounds of apples add three pounds of honey and let the apples sit in the honey for two days. Then put them to boil, always mixing carefully until the honey is cooked. Have in mind that the spices should be added when the candy is nearly cooked and candied, such as for quinces. Then spread the candy over a table or over a wet stone. Make them in the way of a large sheet, less than a half a finger high. Leave them to cool and make rolls of small pieces of the candy and put them to rest on a dish lined with bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) below and then above and build them up layer by layer. And if you want to add spices between each layer it will be very good. Bear in mind that it will need to boil for at least an hour and perhaps for two, always mixing well and protected from smoke.
Candied "Apio" and Paradise Apples
Ingredients:
1 ½ pounds of apples (preferably Granny Smith), cleaned, peeled, and cored
2 ¼ cups of honey
1 tablespoon of fine spice mix[1]
Fresh bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) (for serving)
Directions
1.
Grate the peeled apples using a box grater or mandolin. Place the grated
apples into a sieve suspended above a bowl to collect the juices.
2.
Cover the grated apples and allow them to sit for two days, stirring
occasionally to promote air drying.
3.
On the third day, weigh the strained apples and add 12 ounces
(approximately 1 cup) of honey for every pound of grated apple. Stir well and
let the mixture sit for two more days, stirring daily. (Note:
Modern appliances can blend the mixture into a smooth puree if desired,
otherwise the consistency of the finished product will appear “rough”.)
4.
Transfer the apple and honey mixture into a saucepan and heat it on low
until the honey warms. Then increase the heat and bring the mixture to a boil,
stirring constantly. (Note:
Alternatively, cook the mixture in a crockpot on low heat for at least ten
hours.)
5.
Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and continue stirring
constantly. The paste will gradually darken in color and start pulling away
from the pan's sides.
6.
Add the spice mix to the apple paste when it begins to pull away from
the sides of the pan. Cook until a spoon drawn through the paste leaves a
trough without disappearing. This process may take an hour or more.
7.
Transfer the fruit paste to the lined cookie sheet or baking dish and
allow it to cool.
8.
Once cooled, cut the paste into squares, and serve on fresh bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) (do not
consume the leaves). For added flavor, sprinkle the paste with
additional spices before serving.
[1] To make fine spices mix grind 2 tbsp.
peppercorns to a fine powder, add to 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon and ground
ginger. ¾ tsp cloves and 1 ½ tsp
saffron.
Introduction
The historical background of confections
reveals their ancient origins and evolution. The ancient Egyptians preserved
nuts and fruits with honey, while physicians in the Middle Ages used sweet
confections to mask the taste of medicines. Sugar, introduced from India,
Persia, and the Middle East, gradually replaced honey as a sweetener. The
concept of sugar as medicine emerged from the Hippocratic theory of balancing
bodily humors. According to Greek dietetics, the stomach's heat and digestion
played a crucial role in maintaining health. Sugar and honey were believed to
warm the stomach and aid digestion, leading to their prominence in sweet dishes
served at the end of meals.
The recipe for "CXXXII. Confetti de
melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare
come ti pare" holds several significant aspects. It documents the
creation of a fruit paste that is served immediately upon completion, rather
than drying it first. It also uses honey as the primary sweetener, reflecting
an earlier period when sugar was not as prevalent. Additionally, the recipe
showcases the richness of the ingredients, indicating the wealth of the person serving
it. The instructions even include directions on how to present the dessert. By
exploring this specific recipe, the project aims to revive a forgotten
confectionary technique and deepen our understanding of the early history of
candy making, particularly fruit pastes.
Examining the Ingredients
What
kind of apples were available? Of the many varieties that were grown during
this time, two stand out. The pearmaine
and the paradise, which is mentioned in the recipe. The Pearmaine apple, dating
back to around 1200 in England, is described as small to medium-sized. It
exhibits yellowish-green skin with streaks of red. It possesses a conical shape
reminiscent of a pear, albeit wider at the stem and tapering towards the
bottom. A related variety is the Queening apple, also known as Winter
Pearmaine, is available today. These apples are known for their sweet, slightly
tart, and tangy flavor with subtle notes of pear. A paradise apple, also called
an "apium apple" or "apius apple," denotes the common
apple variety. According to the Minnesota Seasons website, these apples are
fleshy and exhibit a globe-shaped to somewhat egg-shaped pome, ranging from 2⅜″
to 4⅓″ in diameter. Initially green, they gradually turn yellow to red as they
ripen in the mid-to-late summer. Paradise apples are commonly used as rootstock
and possess an astringent or mildly acidic taste.
Considering
the known apple varieties, the most favorable options for recreating this
recipe are Pearmaine or Paradise apples. Obtaining these specific apples,
however, proves challenging in the everyday marketplace. Nevertheless, there
are modern apple varieties that can serve as substitutes. Apples such as
Suncrisp, Gala, Ambrosia, Jazz, Fuji, Envy, and Winesap, known for their
sweetness, slight tartness, and pear-like notes, can be suitable substitutes
for Pearmaine. Additionally, with their acidic and sharp taste, Granny Smith
apples can serve as a viable substitute for the Paradise apple.
In
addition to sweetness, honey serves several other purposes in preparing Apio. Firstly, honey acts as a natural
binder or thickener, melding the grated apples together and creating a cohesive
texture for the fruit paste. Secondly, honey acts as a preservative due to its
antimicrobial properties. It helps inhibit the growth of microorganisms,
extending the shelf life of the Apio
and enabling storage before consumption. Lastly, honey flavor directly
complements the apples' natural sweetness and enhances the spices used, helping
to create a balance of flavors.
The Richness of Spices
Original Recipe Specie fine a tute cosse in Italian
LXXIII. Specie fine a tute cosse.
Toi una
onza de pevere e una de cinamo e una de zenzevro e mezo quarto de garofali e
uno quarto de zaferanno.
Translation
LXXIII Fine spices for all dishes (things)
Take one ounce of pepper, one ounce
of cinnamon, one ounce of ginger, half a quarter ounce of cloves, and one
quarter ounce of saffron.
Pepper found its way into Italy during the first century BC. The Romans, renowned for their expansive trade networks, established connections with various regions, including India and other parts of Asia, where pepper thrived. Pliny the Elder describes black, long, and white pepper in his Natural History. He emphasizes the significance of these spices, stating, "Both pepper and ginger grow wild in their respective countries, and yet here we buy them by weight—just as if they were so much gold or silver." Pepper quickly became a vital ingredient in Roman cuisine and remained widely utilized throughout the empire.
Saffron
also entered Italy early, thanks to the ancient Greeks. They actively
cultivated and traded this valuable spice, sourcing it from regions such as
Persia (modern-day Iran) and Asia Minor (modern-day Turkey). The remaining
spices mentioned in the recipe, however—cinnamon, clove, and ginger—arrived in
Italy later. By the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, Italy had grown into
the Mediterranean world’s key center of trade and commerce. Venice became a
crucial bridge connecting Northern and Western Europe with the Middle East and
the Far East, granting access to diverse spices originating from these distant
lands.
Comparison of Period and Modern-Day Equipment Used in the Preparation of Candied Apio
After being air dried
for two days, the grated apples are passed through a sieve or strainer,
separating the excess liquid from the fruit. This step, passa le pome gratate (sieve the grated apples), allows for
accurate measurement of the weight of the apples. The cook adds an equal weight
of honey and lets the apples soak for two more days before proceeding to the
next step. Scappi's Opera also
features an illustration of a sieve, providing insight into its potential
appearance during the time.
Analysis of Cooking Techniques used in Apio
The Importance of Presentation and the Use of
Bay Laurel Leaves
It
is important to note that the bay leaves are not intended for consumption but
serve as an ornamental element. Despite being commonly utilized in culinary
preparations, bay leaves are generally not ingested in their raw or whole form
due to their leathery texture, which can be unpalatable. To extract their
desired flavor and aroma fully, bay leaves are best utilized by simmering,
boiling, or infusing them in liquids during cooking. Their presence in this
recipe is solely decorative.
It is worth mentioning, however, that even in their raw state, bay leaves make contributions beyond the ornamental. Bay leaves – like honey -- possess significant preservative and microbial properties that contribute to their value in the culinary world. The leaves contain essential oils, such as cineol, eugenol, and linalool, which exhibit antimicrobial effects against various bacteria and fungi. Their ability to inhibit pathogens like Escherichia coli (E. coli), Salmonella, and Listeria monocytogenes makes them a natural food preservative. Additionally, the antioxidants found in bay leaves, including caffeic acid and rutin, aid in preventing oxidative damage and spoilage. Thus, bay leaves serve as a natural food preservative due to their ability to hinder the growth of microorganisms and extend the shelf life of various food preparations. In addition to their preservative properties, bay leaves are an effective insect repellent. The pungent aroma of these leaves, primarily due to essential oils, deters pests like ants, cockroaches, and weevils. This natural quality makes bay leaves valuable to food storage areas or dried goods, safeguarding them from infestations. Historically, bay leaves have been utilized in traditional medicine for their antimicrobial attributes, aiding digestion, respiratory ailments, and wound healing. These multifaceted properties of bay leaves contribute to their extensive use in culinary practices and various therapeutic applications (Sirikin, 2018).
Conclusion
In conclusion, the exploration of the manuscript "Il libro per cuoco o Anonimo Veneziano o Anonimo Veneto" offers valuable insights into the early history of candy making and the culinary traditions of early Italy by providing a glimpse into the cooking methods, ingredients, and preferences of that era. Of the many recipes found within the document, one recipe, "CXXXII. Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare," stands out. It showcases the creation of Apio, an apple-based fruit paste using honey as the primary sweetener, reflecting the prevalence of honey as a sweetener during that time. This rediscovered recipe not only offers a delicious treat but also highlights the interplay of humoral qualities in ancient Greek dietetics and how it continued to impact diet in the fifteenth century, emphasizing the balance of bodily humors through carefully selected ingredients.
Researchers who may be interested in further exploration
into medieval culinary practices in the fourteenth and fifteenth century,
should consider the following books. "Liber de Coquina," a
14th-century Neapolitan cookbook. "Le Viandier," authored by
Guillaume Tirel (Taillevent) in the 14th century, is a French cookbook. For a
glimpse into the culinary practices of medieval England, "Forme of Cury"
is an essential resource. Compiled by King Richard II's chefs in the late 14th
century, this cookbook contains a diverse range of recipes. To explore the
gastronomy of medieval Catalonia, "Libre del Coch" by Ruperto
de Nola is recommended.
Final Thoughts:
Surprisingly modern in taste, this recipe could easily find a place on a cheese board or even as a unique addition to a sandwich. It would serve as an excellent dessert course alongside other candies such as manus christi, sugar plate, comfits, marzipan, marchpane, or gingerbread.
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