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Kitchen Adventures – Tench (Fish) Three-Ways

Originally published on Patreon Oct 7, 2022





After some debate, I placed all three interpretations from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin for tench in sauce or broth on the same blog post. My reasoning for this is that they have more similarities than differences. The Tenche in Cyueye includes onions, the Tenche in Bruette does not and the Rapeye can be made with various fishes (including tench) and includes different raisins and spices.

The Glossary of Medieval & Renaissance Culinary Terms defines cyueye in the following way:

cive, civey(e), ciuey, cyuey, ceue, cyueye = Ragout or stew (possibly derived from a word meaning 'onion' (Plouvier). (Viandier) - Among other modern usages, this is probably a derivative of civey, which was at one time named for, and characterized by, the possibility of thickening a sauce with finely chopped onion, cooked till very soft. Some medieval recipes for civeys (for example, hare in civey) also call for blood as an additional thickener; nowadays the dish, which is now sometimes called civet, is mostly characterized by thickening and enriching the broth with the reserved blood of the critter you're cooking. It will coagulate if boiled, and turn very dark, but if heated properly it will assume a velvety texture similar to a stirred custard, and acquire a deep russet shade almost like a mole-poblano-type sauce. (Troy)
I was intrigued by the instructions to scald or boil the fish before roasting it. Scalding is a method of cleaning and killing any microorganisms that might be harmful. It involves heating a liquid (in this case water) or milk to just below boiling. If you have a thermometer 180 degrees is best. If you don't you want to keep an eye on the side of the pan. You can remove your liquid when you see small bubbles forming around the side and steam starting to wisp off the pan.

Original Recipe

.lxxxxiiij. Tenche in bruette.—Take þe Tenche, an sethe hem & roste hem, an grynde Pepir an Safroun, Bred and Ale, & tempere wyth þe brothe, an boyle it; þen take þe Tenche y-rostyd, an ley hym on a chargeoure; þan ley on þe sewe a-boue

Interpretation

94. Tench in Broth- Take the tench, and boil him and roast him, and grind pepper and saffron, bread and ale, and temper with the broth, and boil it, then take the tench roasted, and lay him on a charger; then lay on the sauce above.

Ingredients - Serves 1 as Main, 2 as side

1/4 pound fatty firm textured fish such as carp, perch, tench, bluefish or bass
1/4 tsp. pepper
pinch of saffron
1/4 cup dried bread crumbs
3/4 cup ale
3 tbsp. fish broth

Instructions In keeping with the instructions, I scalded the fish by placing it in a pot with just enough water to cover it. I then heated the pan until I saw small bubbles forming around the edge of it and steam starting to form. Due to modern methods of cleaning and butchering fish, I imagine you could have skipped this step without difficulty.

I removed the fish from the pan and placed it on a lightly oiled baking sheet and roasted it in the oven until it was done. While the fish was cooking in the oven I took a few tablespoons of the broth and added the saffron to it. Once the saffron had strongly colored the water, I added it to the ale (ok confession time--I used Sam Adams Summer Shandy made with lemon peel and grains of paradise) and then soaked the bread crumbs in it. Once the bread was soggy I put it in the pot and brought it to a boil until it formed a thick sauce. After the fish had finished cooking I plated and served it.

Original Recipe

.lxxxxv. Tenche in cyueye.—Take a tenche, an skalde hym, roste hym, grynde Pepir an Safroun, Brede an Ale, & melle it to-gederys; take Oynonys, hakke hem, an frye hem in Oyle, & do hem þer-to, and messe hem forth.

Interpretation

95. Tench in Civey - Take a tench, and scald him, roast him, grind pepper and saffron, bread and ale, and mix it together; take onions, hack them, and fry them in oil, and do them there-to, and mess him forth.

Ingredients - Serves 1 as Main, 2 as side

1/4 pound fatty firm textured fish such as carp, perch, tench, bluefish or bass
1/4 tsp. pepper
pinch of saffron
1/4 cup dried bread crumbs
3/4 cup ale
3 tbsp. fish broth
3 tbsp. onions
1 tbsp. oil

Instructions

To make this dish, follow the instructions above. The additional step is to lightly brown the finely chopped onion in oil, and after plating, garnish the plate with it.

Original Recipe

.Cxxxiij. Rapeye.—Take Pykys or Tenchys, oþer freysshe Fysshe, & frye it in Oyle; þen nyme crustys of whyte brede, & Raysonys & Canelle, an bray it wyl in a mortere, & temper it vppe wyth gode wyne; þen coloure it with Canelle, or a litil Safroun: þan boyle it, & caste in hol Clowys & Quybibes, & do þe Fysshe in a dysshe, & þan serue forth.

Interpretation

133. Rapeye - Take pike or tench, other fresh fish, & fry it in oil; then take crusts of white bread, and raisins and cinnamon, and grind it well in a mortar, and temper it up with good wine; then color it with cinnamon or a little saffron; then boil it, and caste in whole cloves, and cubebs and do the fish in a dish, and then serve forth.

Ingredients - Serves 1 as Main, 2 as side

1/4 pound fatty firm textured fish such as carp, perch, tench, bluefish or bass
1 tbsp. oil
1/4 cup dried bread crumbs
1 tbsp. raisins
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
3/4 cup wine
3 tbsp. fish broth
Pinch of saffron
1/8 tsp. cloves
1/4 tsp. cubebs

Instructions

Prepare and serve as above.

Sources

"Glossary.Html". Thousandeggs.Com, 2022, http://www.thousandeggs.com/glossary.html#C. Accessed 7 Oct 2022.

"Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books : Harleian MS. 279 (Ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (Ab. 1450), With Extracts From Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 / Edited By Thomas Austin". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/c/cme/CookBk/1:6?rgn=div1;view=fulltext. Accessed 7 Oct 2022.

Kitchen Adventures – On Salads (On Sallets)

Originally Published Oct 8, 2022



[Caveat- I did not translate the Salad's from Rumpolt. The translations belong to M. Grasse at the link found under sources.}

Click here to visit a digitized copy of  Marx Rumpolt's "Ein New Kochbuch"

SALLETS in general con∣sist of certain Esculent Plants and Herbs, improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the Gard'ner: Or, as others say, they are a Composition of Edule Plants and Roots of several kinds, to be eaten Raw or Green, Blanch'd or Candied; simple, and per se, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, &c. challenge not the name of Sallet so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore, Those who Criticize not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish the*Olera (which were never eaten Raw) from Acetaria, which were never Boil'd; and so they derive the Etymology of Olus, from Olla, the Pot. (Acetaria a discourse of sallets)

Von allerley Kräuter Salat/ weiß und grün/ wie nachfolget

Of assorted herbal salads/ white and green/ as follows.

I. Endive salad with oil and vinegar prepared/ and with
salt.

2. White endive salad cut nicely small.

3. White head (lettuce or cabbage?) salad.

4. White head salad soaked (poached) in water/ and again cooled/
prepared with vinegar/ oil and salt/ white sugar/ that is crushed/
poured over/ is also good.

5. Green head salad that is half raw and half poached/ is in both ways good/ be it sweet or sour.

6. Green field salad (field greens) prepared / with pomegranate seed sprinkled/
is pretty and decorative.

7. Green salad/ that is small and young/ red beets cut small/ and tossed thereover/ when the salad is prepared/ and the red beets are cooked and cooled

8. Of a white head salad/ that is cut nicely small/ one part poached in cooked water/ and one part raw. And under the poached put capers.

9. Watercress salad/ created in a garden/ or grown near a running creek/ is not bad either.

10. Cooked onion salad/ or roasted (fried)/ make it sweet with a white sugar/ or with small black raisins.

11. Pimpernel Salat

12. White Rapunzel (Bot. Campanula Rapunculus. L.) Bellflower aka little turnip / the root poached/ and a part raw combined with the greens/ is in both ways good to prepare.

13. Round Rapunzzel (Bot. Campanula Rapunculus. L.) poached/ are also not bad to eat.

14. Hops salad/ that is poached.

15. Asparagus salad/ that is also poached/ and cut small/ or prepared whole/ is in both ways good. You can make it with Peabroth/ with a little butter/ pepper and vinegar/ served warm to the table.

16. Chicory root salad/ that is peeled nicely clean/ cut the pit from it/ poach it well/ but that you do not overcook it/ cool it/ make it sweet or sour/ so it is in both ways good.

17 Chicory greens salad/ that is green/ that is poached/ make it sweet or sour. If the greens are young. So one can serve it with vinegar/ oil and salt.

18. Large capers soaked and poached.

19. Small caper salad.

20. Peel the Cucumbers/ and cut them broad and thin/ season them with oil/ pepper and salt. But if they are salt-preserved/ they are also not bad/ are better than raw/ because one can salt it with Fennel and with caraway/ that both can be kept over one year. And near the Rhine-stream one calls it Cucummern

21. Take white beet stems/ peel and poach then in water/ prepare it with oil/ vinegar and salt.

22. Pale salad/ that is green and young/ poach it in water/ season it with vinegar/ oil and salt. And this salad one should not eat much of/ because it purges much.

23. Take hard boiled eggs/ serve them especially beside the salad/ sprinkle them with green parsley and salt/ and pour vinegar over.

24. Sour orange salad/ peel and cut them nicely thick/ sprinkle them with
white sugar.

25. Salad of pomegranate seeds/ sprinkle also with white
sugar.

26. Sorrell salad.

27. Take lemon salad/ cut it broad and thin/ and sprinkle it with
white sugar.

28. Nettle salad.

29. Red beet salad/ when they are cooked/ so cut them small/ long or diced/ season it with oil/ vinegar and salt/ may make it sweet or sour.

30. Artichoke with a pea broth/ good butter/ pepper/ salt/ and a little broth given to the table/ and crushed pepper on the side.

31. Artichoke cooked with beef broth/ and brought warm to the table.

32. Take endive stems/ serve them poached or raw/ cut nicely small.

33. Take a red head lettuce (red cabbage)/ cut it nicely small/ and poach it a little in
warm water/ then cool it quickly/ season it with vinegar and oil/ and when it soaks a while in the vinegar/ it gets nicely red.

34. Of the same greens the stems cut nicely small/ seasoned with vinegar and oil.

35. Take young pumpkin/ that are not large/ peel and cut them nicely long/ remove the seeds/ poach it a little/ cool it thereafter/ and season it with vinegar/ salt and oil.

36.Roman Wicken (Bot. Vicia sativa L.) (common Vetch, the seeds seem to be similar to red lentils, but may well be slightly toxic) and poach them well in their shells/ cool them/ and season them with vinegar/ salt and oil.

37. Take lemon/ chop it small/ season it with nice clean sugar/ that has been crushed/ sprinkle it with pomegranate seed/ that are nicely red/ so it is also delicate and good.

38. Curley salad/ that is nicely green.

39. Take sugar (sugar beet!)/ season it and scrape it/ so they turn white/ poach then
in water/ and cool/ season it with vineger/ oil and salt. You can also serve them
raw/ if they are clean and well peeled or scraped.

40. Salad of red leaf (red cabbage).

41. Take roman beans/ poach and cool them/ prepare them with oil/ vinegar and salt.

42. Take borage, parsley, pimpernel/ lemon balm and hyssop/ astragalus and tarragon/ so it is a combined salad of welltasting herbs/ with borage flowers tossed over/ it is pretty and decorative.

43. Take borage root/ scrape it/ and cut the core therefrom/ and dispose of it/ poach the remaining / and cool it/ season it with oil and salt/ so it is healthful and good.

44.Take radish / and cut it small/ broad and thin/ poach it in
water/ cool it / season it with oil/ vinegar and salt. You may sprinkle it with sugar or not.

45. Or take a radish/ cut in small and thin/ or fine diced/ season it with vinegar/ oil and salt/ so it is good too.

46. You can also arrange a salad in a bowl/ green white and red/ nicely made like a rose/ so it is decorative/ good and welltasting.

47. Kollis Fioris is a Spanish salad/ that one can prepare in all sorts of ways.

48. Take white salad/ that in Italian is called lettuce/ poach it in hot water/ cook it nicely clean/ and cook it with beef broth and fresh butter/ that is unmelted/ make it sweet or not.

49. Take white salad/ that has been poached/ grate a white loaf and parmesan cheese/ cut nutmeg thereunder. Take egg yolks and fresh butter/ that is unmelted/ cut beef marrow thereunder/ and put the salad thereunder/ and a little crushed ginger/ so it is wonderful and filling/ make a dough with egg whites/ work it well/ roll it nicely thin/ as a veil/ that it is translucent/ put the filling therein/ and take each a quarter of the lettuce/ wrap it in the dough with the filling/ and make krapffen (crullers) therefrom. Take a good beef broth and a little whole nutmeg-blossom (mace?)/ set over coals/ and let come to a simmer/ put the crullers one after the other therein/ and let simmer gently. So makes one Schlickrapffen of lettuce/ that are delicious to eat.

50.Take head (lettuce) salad/ cut it in quarters/ and poach it in water/ press it well (to remove water)/ and take a parmesan cheese/ that is well grated/ and grated bread/ mix it together/ and prepare it with egg yolks and fresh butter/ take also a little crushed ginger thereunder/ stir it all together/ and when you want to wrap it in dough/ so take the salad/ that you have quartered/ roll each quarter especially in the filling/ wrap it in the dough/ cook with a pea broth and butter. You may serve it dry/ or in the broth/ as you want to have it.

Source

"Acetaria A Discourse Of Sallets / By J. E. ...". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/B22628.0001.001/1:5?rgn=div1;view=fulltext;q1=salad. Accessed 8 Oct 2022.

"Rumpolt Salad". Web.Archive.Org, 2022, https://web.archive.org/web/20081002110840/http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_salad1.htm. Accessed 8 Oct 2022.

Kitchen Adventures – A delicious marcipan of quince and almonds in a strong flow on a weak stomach ((German) Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem Magen)

 Originally published on Patreon Oct 10, 2022




In Anna Wecker’s Köstlich New Kochbuch (1598), this recipe for marzipan made with quince sounds divine, and so it had to be tested. My previous recipe for Marzipan flavored with coriander from A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1621, previously served at a Baronial 12th Night was well received. I had hoped that this would be no different and was eager to try it out.

What is Marzipan?

Marzipan is a confection made from almond paste, egg whites, and sugar. It is one of many dishes known as "banqueting dishes".

What is a Marchpane?

Marchpanes are baked marzipans that can be served with icing and decorated.

What was the banquet?

Similar to desserts that we enjoy today, the "Banquet" began simply as wafers and wines served in a separate room at the end of the meal when guests withdrew from the table. Eventually, this humble course became what we now know as the Banquet, a series of elaborate dishes consisting of pastries, sugar-coated spices, marmalades, fruit preserved in syrup, etc.

What was included in "the Banquet" ?

Thomas Dawson gives a comprehensive list of items in his book "The good husvvifes ievvell" published in 1596

THE NAMES OF ALL thinges necessary for a banquet. 1596
Suger. Pepper. Saffron. Anniseedes. Cinamon. Nutmegs. Saunders. Coliander. Licoras. All kinde of Cumfets. Orenges. Pomegranet. Torneseli. Prunes. Currans. Barberies conserued. Peper white and browne seedes. Lemmons. Rosewater. Raisins. Rie flowre. Ginger. Cloues and Mace. Damaske. water. Dates. Cherries conserued. Sweete Orenges. Wafers. For your Marchpanes seasoned and vnseasoned, Spinndges.

Original Recipe

Translation   

Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem Magen

A delicious marcipan with quinces and almonds for strong diarrhea and weak stomachs Take nice quinces and steam them with quince juice in a tightly closed pot, or if you do it right they can produce the broth themselves (i.e. can be cooked without adding liquid). When they are nicely soft, remove their skin and take the best of their marrow or flesh so that no stone is added to it. Then take finely ground almonds and clean, bolted sugar as much as there are quinces and almonds. Take the half part of this and boil it into a syrup with rosewater or cinnamon water. Add the flesh of the quinces to this and let it dry or roast in a brass pan together. Then stir it well in a dish and the almonds with it, then place it on a clean table, work in the remaining sugar, and when it is like a gingerbread dough (ein teig zu Lebkuchen), shape it as you like, press in moulds, dry it in a baking oven or a stove (roehrofen). The same way, you may make pears or various kinds from pure quince flesh, or make krapfen (filled fried pastries) of this stuff, but do not work it so it becomes too stiff, leave it nicely soft. You can also fill wafers with it (for fritters).

Let the experimentation begin! 


I am trying a new method for cooking my quinces. I cut three quinces in half and placed them into a crockpot with enough apple juice to cover the bottom of the fruit (about 2 ounces). This method will take a few days, but the results I promise you, are worth it!

Set the crockpot on low and allow the quince to cook for several hours. The idea to cook the quince in a crockpot came from a blog post I had found from well-fed, flat broke "crock pot membrillo".

NOTE: I did not add sugar at this point because I want to follow the recipe as exactly as possible and I am not making quince paste.

A short while later...

The quinces smelled very good and were starting to soften but all of the apple juice has been absorbed or cooked off :-/. I added more juice, enough to come about halfway up the fruit, and continued cooking overnight.

DAY 2

Pictured above are the lovely cooked quinces. They cooked in the slow cooker for about six hours. Aren't they beautiful? Heavy, glossy, and starting to break down!? Exactly what you want to see at this point.

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I must have done it right because the pot was full of "juice".

The next step is to remove the skin, seeds, and cores, blitz them to a pulp in the blender and then return the fruit to the crock pot and continue to cook it until it reaches the color you wish. I love a deep garnet-colored paste.

Also, a small correction. I used fresh pressed cloudy apple juice that may sometimes be referred to as apple cider. It is the only juice I drink or use and I don't think a clear juice would have worked as well.

A Delicious Marcipan (Marzipan) with Quinces and Almonds

Ingredients

3 tbsp. cooked quince pulp

3/4 cup + almond flour **

9 tbps. + confectioner sugar **

NOTE: I did not have access to rosewater, but, had I access it, I would have added a tsp or two. Also, the next time I make the fruit, I will be adding cinnamon to it rather than cinnamon oil.

Mix all ingredients together until you get a dough that is similar to medieval gingerbread. Mix two tbsp. almond flour with 1-2 tbsp. confectioner sugar and sprinkle it on your countertop. Roll to approximately 1/4" and cut into shapes. Allow the marzipan to dry in a very low oven.

**Amount may vary depending on how "wet" the quince pulp is. You want to create a dough the consistency of play dough.

Thoughts

It is a lovely taste! You taste the quince, then the almonds, and towards the end of the bite, the flavors mix together and it tastes -almost- like cherries.

This was very easy to make, although it did require a lot of time. I believe I will be cooking my quinces in the crockpot instead of the stovetop in the future. The lower the heat and the longer it cooks the redder it gets.

Additionally - this stores very well in an airtight container. You can also freeze it by wrapping it in parchment paper and then sealing it in a ziplock bag which has had all the air squeezed from it. This made a huge batch of Marzipan. It is almost a year later, and I have the better part of a pound left because I'm stingy with it!  


Sources

"Crock Pot Membrillo (Quince Paste).". Well Fed, Flat Broke, 2015, https://wellfedflatbroke.com/2015/09/14/membrillo/. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

Culina-Vetus.De, 2022, https://www.culina-vetus.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Recipes-from-Anna-Wecker-1598.pdf. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

"Early English Books Online". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo/A19957.0001.001?type=simple&rgn=full+text&q1=banquet&submit=Go. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

"'Ein Köstlich New Kochbuch Von Allerhand Speisen, An Gemüsen, Obs, Fleisch, Geflügel, Wildpret, Fischen Vnnd Gebachens : Nicht Allein Vor Gesunde: Sondern Auch Vnd Fürnemlich Vor Krancke, In Allerley Kranckheiten Und Gebresten ...' - Digitalisat | MDZ". Digitale-Sammlungen.De, 2022, https://www.digitale-sammlungen.de/de/view/bsb11111117?page=60,61. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.