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Showing posts with label Preservation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preservation. Show all posts

What Was a Stillroom? Its History, Recipes & Modern Revival

What Was a Stillroom? 

The Forgotten Household Workshop and Why Its Arts Are Returning


A few people have asked me what a stillroom is.

One of the sweetest attempts to explain it came from someone describing the idea of Stillroom Co. to another person:

“It’s like the shop in Practical Magic.”

I knew immediately what they meant.

In the film, Sally Owens owns Verbena, a shop filled with herbs, botanical preparations, bottles, scents and beautiful things whose purposes are not always immediately obvious to the modern eye.

Stillroom Co. is not intended to be Verbena, and a historical stillroom was certainly not a magical shop.

But the comparison has stayed with me because I think it reveals something important.

The stillroom was not magical.

It only looks magical to us because so much of the knowledge once practiced there has disappeared from ordinary household life.

Knowing when to gather an herb.

Knowing how to dry it.

Making rosewater.

Preserving fruit.

Pickling vegetables.

Brewing a cordial.

Blending a household scent.

Making a salve.

Polishing wood with beeswax.

Turning the abundance of September into something that could be used in January.

These were not necessarily mysterious arts.

They were useful knowledge.

And for centuries, many of those forms of knowledge met in a place we have almost forgotten.

The stillroom.


What Was a Stillroom?

At its simplest, a stillroom, also written still room or still-room, was a domestic working space associated particularly with substantial British households.

Its name derives from the still, the apparatus used for distillation.

But defining the stillroom simply as “the room where the still was kept” is rather like defining a kitchen as “the room containing the oven.”

Technically true.

Not particularly illuminating.

A stillroom could be connected with the preparation, preservation and storage of food; herbs; flavored and distilled waters; cordials; household medicines; perfumes; cosmetics; pickles; preserves; and other domestic preparations.

Not every household possessed a separate stillroom, and not every stillroom performed every one of these functions. Wealth, period, region, architecture, household size and available labor all mattered.

Some work took place in dedicated still-houses.

Some overlapped with kitchens, dairies, brewhouses, pantries, housekeepers' rooms, closets, gardens and storerooms.

So perhaps the best way to understand the historical stillroom is as both:

a physical workspace

and

a system for organizing useful household knowledge.

The second is more important than the first.


Long Before 1903: The Household Arts Already Belonged Together

One of the easiest mistakes would be to look at Mrs. Charles Roundell and Harry Roberts' 1903 book The Still-Room, see chapters on everything from preserves to perfume and furniture polish, and assume that its breadth was an Edwardian invention.

It wasn't.

We can reach considerably farther back.

In 1615, Gervase Markham published The English Housewife.

Even its title announces an astonishing range of expected household knowledge: physic, cookery, banqueting, distillation, perfumes, dairying, brewing, baking and other matters belonging to household management.

Markham devotes an entire section to “distillations and their virtues, and of perfuming.” He tells his reader that a capable housewife should furnish herself with good stills for distilling waters.

Pause over that list for a moment.

Medicine.

Cookery.

Perfume.

Distillation.

Dairy work.

Brewing.

Baking.

To a modern retailer those are separate departments.

To Markham they were part of the knowledge necessary to manage a household.

That distinction is fundamental to understanding the stillroom.


From the Household Books: 1615

Gervase Markham, The English Housewife

Markham places cookery, household medicine, distillation, perfuming, brewing, dairying and baking within the same system of household competency.

What does this prove?

The association between food, fragrance, medicine and household manufacture long predates the Edwardian stillroom revival.

The categories were already intertwined.


By the Early Nineteenth Century, We Can See the Job Description

Two centuries after Markham, the evidence becomes even more explicit.

Samuel and Sarah Adams published The Complete Servant in 1825.

Their description of the still-room maid is almost a ready-made definition of the room itself.

Her work included:

“distillation of aromatic waters, spirits, and oils”

along with essences and perfumery.

But it didn't end there.

She also helped make pickles, preserves, pastry and confectionery, prepared coffee, cared for china, and assisted in managing the storeroom.

There it is in a contemporary household manual.

Not our modern reconstruction.

Not an aesthetic interpretation.

Not Practical Magic.

A servant whose duties crossed directly from distillation to perfume to jam to pickles to pastry to pantry management.

The stillroom's apparent eclecticism is historical.


Beeton Catches the Stillroom in Decline

By the time Isabella Beeton published The Book of Household Management in 1861, something was changing.

She still describes elaborate work in the stillroom as part of the housekeeper's responsibilities.

But she also says that the stillroom had formerly been much more common.

What had once been produced there?

Beeton specifically mentions flavored waters used in cookery, scents and aromatics used for the toilet, and cordials prepared for illness or accidents.

This is extremely useful evidence because Beeton is not describing some remote medieval practice.

She is writing from inside the transition.

The stillroom still exists.

The still-room maid still exists in some households.

But Beeton already recognizes that an older pattern of domestic manufacture is fading.


The Stillroom Was a Place of Transformation

Look across these household books and one principle appears again and again.

The stillroom was not fundamentally about possessing unusual ingredients.

It was about knowing what to do with them.

A fresh herb became a dried herb.

A flower became aromatic water.

Fruit became preserve.

Vegetables became pickle.

Milk became butter or cheese.

Herbs and spirits became cordials.

Flowers and aromatic plants became perfume.

Wax became polish.

Seasonal abundance became stored provision.

Knowledge transformed materials.

That may be the simplest definition of all:

The stillroom was where perishable things became durable, raw materials became useful preparations, and household knowledge became practice.


Herbs: Knowing When Matters as Much as Knowing What

Consider something apparently simple: drying herbs.

In The Still-Room of 1903, Roundell and Roberts instruct the reader to gather herbs generally just before they flower, remove the roots, bundle them and dry them quickly.

The dried herbs might then be stored in paper bags or powdered and bottled.

Lavender required different handling: it was to be gathered when fully open and dried in shade.

Nothing magical is happening.

But there is knowledge embedded in every step.

Which part of the plant?

At what stage of growth?

Sun or shade?

Whole or powdered?

Bag or bottle?

The useful object is not merely the herb.

The useful object is the herb plus the accumulated knowledge of how to handle it.

That distinction matters enormously.

It is one of the things modern consumer culture can obscure.

We often receive the finished object without inheriting the knowledge that produced it.


From the Stillroom Books: Drying Herbs

Roundell and Roberts advise gathering most herbs just before flowering, quickly drying the bundles, and then storing them dry or powdered and bottled. Lavender was dried separately in shade.

What does this prove?

Stillroom knowledge included timing, processing and storage, not simply recipes.

It was partly a system for managing the calendar of the household.


Pickles: Capturing the Garden in Vinegar

The same principle appears in pickling.

Roundell and Roberts describe pickling as preserving vegetable products in spiced vinegar.

Their basic spiced vinegar could include peppercorns, ginger and mustard seed, with mace, cloves, allspice and cayenne as possible additions.

They give specific instructions for red cabbage and other vegetables.

Their instructions pay attention not only to flavor, but vessels, cleanliness, sealing and storage.

Again, this is not merely cooking dinner.

It is controlling what happens to food after harvest.

That difference is central to the stillroom.

A kitchen answers:

What shall we eat today?

The preserving household must also answer:

What shall we do with what we have today so that we may use it later?


Fruit, Bottling and the Problem of Time

Fruit presents the same challenge.

A tree does not politely distribute twelve apples every month of the year.

It gives you apples when apples are ripe.

The historical household therefore had to think not only about food but time.

Roundell and Roberts devote considerable attention to storing fruit, preserving it and bottling it.

Their 1903 book explains the then-modern practice of bottling fruit in sealed glass containers, explicitly discussing the destruction and exclusion of microorganisms responsible for spoilage.

That section reminds us of something important.

The stillroom tradition was never frozen in the seventeenth century.

Household knowledge evolved.

New science changed old techniques.

New equipment appeared.

Better methods replaced worse ones.

That provides an excellent model for anyone interested in historical household practice today.

Tradition and evidence do not have to be enemies.

We can preserve the idea while updating the method.

Indeed, when dealing with food preservation, we absolutely should.


Rosewater: One Ingredient, Several Worlds

Rosewater may be one of the clearest ways to understand why modern categories fail us.

Today we might encounter rosewater in:

a baking aisle,

a Middle Eastern grocery,

a cosmetic preparation,

a perfume,

or a historical recipe.

To an earlier household, those uses did not necessarily belong to unrelated universes.

Distilled floral waters might be used in cookery.

They might scent the body.

They might appear in household preparations.

They might be ingredients in medical receipts.

Beeton explicitly remembered the still supplying both sweet waters for cooking and aromatics for the toilet.

The Adamses likewise put aromatic waters and perfumery within still-room work while assigning the same servant preserves and pastry.

The same shelf of ingredients could therefore serve several purposes.

Modern retail separates by industry.
The historical household often organized by material and use.

That is why a stillroom can look so strange to us.

We have inherited the products.

We have lost some of the connections between them.


Perfume Belonged Here Too

Roundell and Roberts' perfume chapter makes the connection wonderfully concrete.

Their pot-pourri uses an extraordinary collection of garden and pantry aromatics: bay, myrtle, carnations, orange blossom, violets, lavender, verbena, thyme, balm, marjoram, rosemary, orris root, cloves and citrus peel.

The same chapter goes on to give formulas for Eau de Cologne and lavender water.

Notice what is happening.

Thyme and rosemary have not stopped being culinary herbs.

Cloves have not ceased to be spices.

Orange peel is still food.

Lavender is still a garden plant.

But these materials are being redirected toward fragrance.

The stillroom sits at precisely that intersection.


From the Stillroom Books: Pot-Pourri

The 1903 Still-Room combines lavender, verbena, thyme, balm, marjoram, rosemary, flowers, spices and citrus peel in its pot-pourri.

What does this prove?

The boundary between the pantry, herb garden and perfume cabinet was porous.

A material could have several household lives.


And Then We Arrive at Beeswax

This may be my favorite example because it makes the entire argument almost embarrassingly easy.

Near the back of The Still-Room, after pages of food, herbs, drinks and perfumes, Roundell and Roberts give instructions for caring for furniture.

One polish combines linseed oil, vinegar and turpentine.

For oak, they write:

“The best polish for oak is made by melting a pound of beeswax”

with turpentine.

There it is.

Beeswax furniture polish.

In the same book as:

pickles,

preserves,

dried herbs,

bottled fruit,

cordials,

perfumes,

lavender water,

and household drinks.

A modern shopper may reasonably ask:

What does furniture conditioner have to do with marmalade?

Roundell and Roberts apparently felt no need to ask.

Both were household work.

That is the stillroom idea in miniature.


The Household Receipt Book Was a Stillroom Made of Paper

The physical room is only half of the story.

The other half survived in books.

Household manuscript recipe books frequently mingle what we would now call culinary recipes with medical preparations and other practical instructions.

These books were copied, corrected, inherited and expanded.

Recipes moved between relatives, neighbors and acquaintances.

Printed recipes entered manuscript collections.

Professional knowledge entered domestic collections.

Successful preparations could be preserved for the next generation.

A household recipe book was therefore much more than a cookbook.

It could function as:

a pantry manual,

a medical reference,

a laboratory notebook,

a record of preservation,

a family archive,

and a memory system.

The Folger Shakespeare Library's extensive early-modern recipe collections preserve precisely this mingling of culinary and medicinal knowledge.

Historian Elaine Leong's work on early-modern recipe culture has also emphasized how household knowledge could be accumulated socially rather than simply authored by one isolated individual.

Knowledge traveled.

It was tested.

It was adapted.

It was remembered.

In that sense, the household recipe book was something rather wonderful:

a stillroom made of paper.


Who Actually Did This Work?

Here we need to be careful not to polish history until it gleams falsely.

The stillroom is strongly associated with women because women frequently bore responsibility for food preservation, nursing, household medicines, textile work, fragrance and domestic management.

In elite households, the mistress of the household or housekeeper might supervise this work.

Servants performed much of the labor.

The existence of the specialized still-room maid makes that division particularly visible by the nineteenth century.

But households were networks.

Men might contribute recipes.

Professional practitioners supplied knowledge.

Neighbors exchanged preparations.

Servants carried skills between employers.

Family members inherited books.

Nor should we pretend that every woman in the past spent peaceful afternoons distilling lavender in a sunlit room.

Much of this work was labor.

Sometimes relentless labor.

Dedicated stillrooms themselves imply space and resources that many poorer households did not possess.

The history becomes more interesting, not less, when we allow it to be complicated.


Was the Stillroom an Apothecary?

No.

There was overlap, but they were not the same institution.

Domestic medical preparations appear throughout household literature, and distillation equipment, syrups, waters, salves and other preparations could resemble things made by professional medical practitioners.

But a household stillroom served the household.

An apothecary participated in a commercial and increasingly regulated profession.

And this distinction matters especially today.

Historical household medicine is fascinating evidence about how people understood health, plants, bodies and domestic responsibility.

It is not automatically modern medical advice.

Some historical remedies were useful.

Some were harmless.

Some were ineffective.

Some were dangerous.

Historical interest should never require abandoning modern evidence.


So What Happened to the Stillroom?

It did not vanish on a particular date.

Its functions were scattered.

Commercial preserving expanded.

Pharmacies expanded.

Perfume became an industry.

Soap became an industry.

Brewing became increasingly commercial.

Packaged food became easier to purchase.

Transportation improved.

Refrigeration changed food storage.

Domestic architecture changed.

Domestic service changed.

Eventually, a household no longer needed one place in which these kinds of work met.

You could simply buy the results.

By 1861, Beeton was already describing the older stillroom as less common.

By 1903, Roundell and Roberts were openly lamenting the change.

They called their own period an:

“age which may well be called the age of the purveyor”

and worried that people were becoming increasingly accustomed to having others make things for them.

Their book is not ideologically neutral.

Its arguments about women's roles belong firmly to its own period and should be read critically.

But their observation about household production is historically interesting.

As more goods became commercially available, less knowledge was required to produce those goods at home.

And when a society stops making something routinely, something curious can happen.

The object remains familiar.

The process becomes mysterious.


The Ordinary Begins to Look Like Magic

And now we are back at Practical Magic.

Why does a room filled with herbs, bottles, rosewater, beeswax, preserves, spices, salves and fragrant preparations feel faintly enchanted?

Because we no longer expect those things to belong together.

A rose is decoration.

Unless you know how to distill it.

Blackberries are fruit.

Unless you know how to preserve them.

Beeswax is an ingredient printed on a label.

Unless you know how to use it.

Lavender is fragrance.

Unless you know when to harvest it, how to dry it, how to store it, and the enormous range of ways previous households employed it.

A mortar and pestle is kitchen décor.

Until somebody picks it up.

Knowledge changes an object.

Lost knowledge changes it again.

The practical becomes picturesque.

The ordinary becomes exotic.

And something our great-grandparents might have recognized as household work begins to look suspiciously like magic.


But the Story Does Not End in 1903

If we stop there, we tell only half the story.

Because some of these skills are returning.

Not all at once.

Not in one movement.

And certainly not because everyone suddenly decided to reconstruct a Victorian stillroom.

The revival has come in waves.


The 1970s: An Earlier Return to Household Skills

Home production did not simply decline in a straight line throughout the twentieth century.

The United States Department of Agriculture's National Agricultural Library documents a resurgence in home canning during the early 1970s, specifically connecting it with the growing back-to-nature and do-it-yourself movements.

This followed a substantial postwar decline.

After World War II, commercially canned food became readily available and household refrigerators increasingly offered an easier method of food storage.

USDA material records home canning dropping from 44 percent to 34 percent between 1954 and 1964.

Then people began coming back.

Gardening.

Canning.

Homesteading.

Craft.

Self-sufficiency.

Not universally.

Not permanently.

But enough to demonstrate that household skills could become culturally desirable again after periods of decline.


Then Came 2020

COVID-19 did not invent the revival of domestic skills.

It did something else.

It accelerated it.

Suddenly the invisible systems that supplied ordinary life became visible.

Grocery shelves emptied.

Supply chains faltered.

Yeast disappeared.

Seeds sold out.

Canning lids became difficult to find.

People spent extraordinary amounts of time at home.

And skills that had sometimes been treated as quaint hobbies abruptly acquired another dimension.

They were useful.

A Canadian study of home food gardening found that among respondents who gardened, 17.4 percent had begun growing food in 2020, while roughly two-thirds of those new gardeners said the pandemic influenced their decision.

Researchers studying gardeners internationally also found that gardens provided food, outdoor activity, creativity, connection and a sense of refuge during the early pandemic.

Home food preservation surged as well.

The Extension Foundation reports that requests for validated preservation recipes through the National Center for Home Food Preservation rose 620 percent in 2020 compared with 2019.

People canned.

They pickled.

They froze.

They dried.

They fermented.

They baked bread.

They planted gardens.

And often they went online looking for something earlier generations might have sought from a mother, grandmother, neighbor, housekeeper or household receipt book:

instructions.


The Interesting Part Is What Happened Afterward

A temporary pandemic hobby would be historically interesting.

But the persistence is more interesting.

University of Minnesota Extension now describes interest in food preservation as having surged during COVID-era supply disruptions and notes that preserving food at home remains popular today, tied to home gardening, local food, waste reduction and household budgets.

A 2024 Extension conference presentation reported that demand for home-preservation training and resources had increased markedly since 2020 and continued post-COVID.

Penn State Extension likewise describes increased contemporary interest while emphasizing the importance of replacing outdated and unsafe preservation practices with modern research-based methods.

Gardening shows signs of persistence too.

Follow-up Canadian research in 2022 suggested that although some pandemic gardeners had stopped, those continuing appeared at least as committed, and in some respects more committed, than during the initial 2020 surge.

That is a much more interesting cultural development than a lockdown fad.

The emergency faded.

Some of the skills stayed.


We Are Not Rebuilding the Room

This is where the historical stillroom becomes unexpectedly useful as a way of understanding modern life.

Most people reviving these skills would never call what they are doing “stillroom work.”

The pieces are scattered.

Sourdough starter bubbles on a kitchen counter.

Tomatoes grow in a raised bed.

Herbs hang to dry.

Canning jars fill a pantry.

Someone learns to ferment cabbage.

Someone else learns to mend clothing.

Another person replaces disposable kitchen wrap with waxed cloth.

Someone begins buying loose tea.

A bottle of rosewater appears in the pantry.

A wooden cutting board is maintained instead of discarded.

Preserves are made from summer fruit.

None of these activities alone constitutes a stillroom.

But taken together they suggest the return of an older proposition:

A household can contain knowledge as well as products.

That may be the true resurrection.

Not the room.

The relationship.


We Know Better Now, and That Matters

Recovering historical household skills does not mean reproducing every historical method.

This is particularly important with food preservation, medicine and cosmetics.

A nineteenth-century canning instruction is historical evidence.

It is not automatically a safe modern canning instruction.

An old medical receipt tells us what people believed and did.

It is not a substitute for contemporary medical care.

Historical recipes can help us understand earlier lives without becoming commandments.

Modern food science has taught us things our predecessors did not know.

Modern medicine has taught us things they did not know.

Modern regulation exists for reasons.

A thoughtful revival takes the best possible position:

Recover the knowledge.
Understand the history.
Keep the useful principle.
Use modern evidence where modern evidence is better.

That is not betraying tradition.

It is exactly what households themselves have always done.

The 1903 stillroom already contained equipment and preservation science that Markham could not have imagined in 1615.

Household knowledge was never truly static.


From the Age of the Purveyor to the Age of Rediscovery

There is a lovely symmetry here.

In 1903, Roundell and Roberts worried that they lived in an age of the purveyor.

People increasingly bought what other people made.

More than a century later, we still live in that world.

Most of us are not going to distill our own perfume, grow every herb, bake every loaf, preserve every vegetable, make every cleaner, sew every garment and brew every beverage.

Nor should we have to.

But alongside the enormous convenience of modern consumer life, another impulse has appeared:

I would like to know how this works.

Where did this come from?

What is in it?

Could I make it?

Could I repair it?

Could I grow it?

Could I preserve it?

Is there a longer-lived version?

What did people do before this became disposable?

That curiosity is the thread connecting much of today's interest in gardening, preserving, fermentation, sourdough, herbalism, repair, natural materials and traditional household crafts.

It isn't necessarily a rejection of modernity.

It is often a demand for greater literacy within modernity.

Someone can bake sourdough and own a microwave.

Grow tomatoes and order takeout.

Use beeswax on a wooden table and buy commercial laundry detergent.

Preserve strawberries and keep insulin in a modern refrigerator.

There is no contradiction.

The choice is not:

past or present.

The more interesting choice is:

Which pieces of each are worth carrying forward?


What Would a Modern Stillroom Be?

Probably not a literal room containing a copper alembic.

For most of us, it may simply be an attitude toward household life.

Know what your materials do.

Know where things come from.

Learn a few useful skills.

Preserve what is worth preserving.

Repair what is worth repairing.

Choose durable things when practical.

Keep recipes.

Record experiments.

Share knowledge.

Learn the difference between historical curiosity and safe modern practice.

Use the pantry.

Use the garden.

Use the things you own.

And perhaps become a little less willing to believe that every ordinary household problem requires a newly manufactured disposable solution.

That is not nostalgia.

It is literacy.


Useful Knowledge. Beautiful Things. Living History.

Why I Chose the Name Stillroom

And this is why the word Stillroom would not leave me alone.

After years of reconstructing historical food, reading household manuscripts, working with old recipes, and thinking about how practical knowledge survives or disappears, I realized that the stillroom supplied an organizing idea I could not find anywhere else.

Then my own life reached something of a crossroads.

My current job ends in December. In my late fifties, and still several years from retirement, I could put myself back onto the job market and begin again somewhere else.

Or I could build something.

I chose to build.

I am opening Stillroom Co. , a modern interpretation of the historical stillroom: first online, and, if all goes according to plan, as a brick-and-mortar shop early next year.

And after everything you have just read, the assortment may make considerably more sense.

Stillroom Co. is not intended to reproduce one historical room exactly.

It is not an apothecary pretending to be medical practice.

It is not only a tea shop.

It is not only a spice shop.

It is not only a kitchen store.

It is not only a natural-products store.

It is not only a historical gift shop.

The historical stillroom suggests something broader:

Pantry.
Hearth.
Household.
Body.
Knowledge.

A soup beside a loaf of bread.

Tea beside honey.

Rosewater beside a historical recipe.

Preserves beside the history of preserving.

Beeswax beside the wood it can protect.

Herbs beside the knowledge of what people once did with them.

Soap.

Spices.

Household tools.

Useful recipes.

Long-lived things.

Objects whose histories matter.

That assortment seems eclectic only when viewed through the departments of a modern big-box store.

Begin instead with the needs of a household, and suddenly it makes sense.

And if any of this sounds interesting to you, I would love to invite you along while I build it.

Stillroom Co. is very much at the beginning. There is a small digital catalog online now, but the first physical merchandise has been ordered and should begin arriving over the next few weeks. I am starting deliberately, with a wide but shallow assortment, so that I can learn what people actually use, enjoy, and want to see more of.

Some of the first shelves will include goods from makers and suppliers such as the United Society of Shakers, The Whistling Kettle, Cooke Tavern Soups, Dr. Pete's Foods, Frontier Co-op, and other small producers whose work fits somewhere within that old constellation of pantry, hearth, household and body.

There will be teas and herbs. Soups and bread mixes. Preserves and spices. Rosewater. Beeswax. Tallow goods. Soap. Household cleaners and useful things meant to last. There will also be historical recipes and practical knowledge, because I don't want Stillroom to be only a place that sells the finished object. I want it to help restore some understanding of the knowledge behind it.

So, if you'd like to see what happens when someone in her late fifties decides that losing her job might be an opportunity to build the strange little shop she wishes still existed, come with me.

Follow Stillroom Co. on Facebook, visit the growing online shop, tell me what you think should be on the shelves, and watch as the first boxes arrive.

I have no idea exactly where this experiment will ultimately take me.

But I think it is going to be interesting.


Perhaps We Never Really Lost the Stillroom

Maybe we only dismantled it.

We sent the medicine to the pharmacy.

The perfume to the cosmetics counter.

The preserves to the grocery store.

The soap to another aisle.

The beer to the brewery.

The herbs to little glass bottles.

The furniture polish to the hardware store.

The knowledge went everywhere.

And because it went everywhere, we stopped recognizing that it had once belonged together.

Now some of those pieces are finding one another again.

A sourdough starter here.

A garden there.

A row of preserving jars.

A bundle of drying herbs.

A jar of jam.

A repaired chair.

A bottle of rosewater.

A piece of beeswax.

A recipe copied and saved.

Perhaps the stillroom is returning without anyone rebuilding the stillroom.

Perhaps what is returning is something more important:

the belief that ordinary life is worth knowing how to do.

The stillroom was never really about the still.

It was about knowing what to do with what you had.

And that may be exactly why, four centuries after Markham told his readers to furnish themselves with good stills, the idea feels unexpectedly alive again.


Historical Confidence

Confidence Level: High

The broad relationship among household cookery, preservation, distillation, fragrance, medicine and practical domestic production is supported across several centuries of primary household literature.

Gervase Markham's The English Housewife demonstrates that physic, cookery, distillation, perfume, dairying, brewing and baking were being presented within a single household knowledge system by 1615.

Samuel and Sarah Adams' 1825 description of the still-room maid explicitly combines aromatic distillation and perfumery with pickles, preserves, pastry, confectionery and storeroom work.

Isabella Beeton's 1861 discussion shows that the stillroom was already declining while preserving the memory of its culinary waters, fragrances and cordials.

Roundell and Roberts' 1903 The Still-Room documents the persistence and attempted revival of a broad household tradition encompassing preservation, herbs, beverages, perfume and household preparations.

The interpretation should not be universalized to every British household or every period. Dedicated stillrooms were more characteristic of households with sufficient space, labor and resources, while comparable work might occur elsewhere.

The argument that COVID-19 accelerated a modern revival is also well supported for gardening and food preservation, but COVID did not originate those movements. USDA evidence documents an earlier home-canning resurgence associated with DIY and back-to-nature culture in the 1970s. Pandemic-era research subsequently documents sharp increases in gardening and preservation interest in 2020, with evidence that some of that interest persisted afterward.


Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly was a stillroom?

A stillroom was a domestic workspace associated especially with larger British households. Distillation gave the room its name, but activities associated with stillroom work could include preserving, pickling, drying herbs, making aromatic waters, cordials, perfumes, household medicines and other domestic preparations.

Why was it called a stillroom?

Because the room could contain a still, equipment used to heat materials and condense their vapors into distilled liquids such as aromatic waters or spirits.

Did every house have one?

No. Dedicated stillrooms required space, equipment and labor. Many households performed comparable tasks elsewhere, including kitchens, still-houses, dairies, brewhouses, gardens, pantries and storerooms.

Was a stillroom just an apothecary?

No. Household medicine overlapped with some apothecary practices, but a stillroom served domestic needs rather than functioning as a professional medical business.

Did stillrooms really make perfume?

Yes. Perfume and aromatic preparations appear in household literature alongside distillation. Markham included perfuming in 1615, Beeton remembered aromatic toilet preparations in 1861, and Roundell and Roberts provided recipes for pot-pourri, Eau de Cologne and lavender water in 1903.

Were jams and pickles really part of stillroom work?

Yes. The 1825 Complete Servant explicitly lists pickles and preserves among still-room maid duties, and The Still-Room of 1903 devotes substantial sections to preservation and pickling.

What does beeswax furniture polish have to do with a stillroom?

Household preparations were part of the stillroom tradition. Roundell and Roberts include furniture polishes in The Still-Room, including an oak polish based on beeswax and turpentine.

Did COVID bring these skills back?

COVID did not begin the revival. Home canning, gardening, DIY and back-to-the-land movements had earlier resurgences, including a documented 1970s home-preservation revival. However, the pandemic sharply increased interest in gardening, food preservation and other household skills, and Extension sources indicate that some of that demand persisted after the acute pandemic period.

Is historical food preservation safe to reproduce?

Not automatically. Historical methods are valuable evidence but should not replace current research-based preservation guidance. Modern USDA and Extension recommendations should be used when food safety is involved.

Is Stillroom Co. intended to recreate a historical stillroom?

No. The historical stillroom provides an organizing principle rather than a blueprint. The modern idea brings together useful things and useful knowledge for the pantry, hearth, household and body while applying contemporary safety and evidence.


Primary Sources

Adams, Samuel and Sarah. The Complete Servant. 1825. The description of the still-room maid provides unusually direct evidence for the combination of distillation, perfume, preservation, pastry and storeroom work.

Beeton, Isabella. The Book of Household Management. 1861. See the discussion of the housekeeper and still-room maid.

Markham, Gervase. The English Housewife. 1615. Wellcome Collection preserves a digitized public-domain copy.

Roundell, Mrs. Charles, and Harry Roberts. The Still-Room. London and New York: John Lane, The Bodley Head, 1903.


Modern Research and Further Reading

USDA National Agricultural Library. How Did We Can? The collection documents the postwar decline and 1970s resurgence of home food preservation.

Music, Janet L., et al. “Home Food Gardening in Canada in Response to the COVID-19 Pandemic.” Sustainability 13 (2021). The survey documented substantial pandemic-era entry into home food gardening.

University of Minnesota Extension. Contemporary history and education concerning food preservation, including the pandemic-era surge and continued interest.

Extension Foundation / National Center for Home Food Preservation. Documentation of the dramatic 2020 increase in requests for validated preservation information.

National Health Outreach and Engagement Conference, 2024. “The Need for Science-based Home Canning Education Post-COVID,” documenting continued elevated demand for home preservation education.


A Note on Historical Recipes

Recipes and household instructions quoted or discussed in this article are presented as historical evidence.

Historic medical, cosmetic and food-preservation practices may not meet contemporary standards of safety. Where a historical method involves food preservation, health care or potentially hazardous materials, consult current research-based guidance before attempting it.

Understanding what people did is not the same thing as recommending that we do it now.


AI Transparency

AI tools assisted with locating and comparing digitized primary sources, cross-checking chronology, organizing citations, identifying overbroad claims, and structuring the article for clarity and search discoverability.

Historical interpretation, source selection, conclusions and final editorial responsibility remain with the author.

Oranges after the Portugal Fashion – Candied Renaissance Oranges (Sir Hugh Plat, 1609)

🍊 Oranges after the Portugal Fashion - Candied Renaissance Oranges (Sir Hugh Plat, 1609)

Originally published 1/18/2015 - Updated 9/10/2025 - Refreshed 5/27/2026

Imagine being served what appears to be a glossy orange at a Renaissance banquet, only to discover that it has been boiled, candied in sugar syrup, filled with marmalade, and sliced open like a jewel-bright hard-boiled egg. Sir Hugh Plat’s Delights for Ladies (1609) preserves exactly that kind of culinary theater in his recipe “To preserve Orenges after the Portugall fashion.”

This is not a simple orange preserve. It is edible display. Whole oranges are softened, sweetened, filled with a stiff orange marmalade made from their own pulp, returned to syrup, and then served in slices. Plat promises that the finished fruit “will cut like an hard egge,” which is one of those historical recipe instructions that sounds impossible until you see it happen on the plate.

I have served these at feast, and one of the best things about them was that people thought they were table decorations. They sat on the table looking so bright, polished, and ornamental that diners did not immediately realize they were meant to be eaten. The servers had to explain that yes, the oranges were part of the menu. That moment is exactly why this recipe matters. It shows how Renaissance sweets could blur the line between food, decoration, luxury, and conversation piece.

Best historical choice: use Seville or bitter oranges if you can find them. I first made this recipe with ordinary sweet oranges, which worked, but later a generous member of the historical food community sent me bitter oranges and helped refine the quantities. I wish I could remember whether it was Ken Albala or David Friedman, but I remain deeply grateful for the opportunity. The bitter orange version was, to my taste, far better: more balanced, less cloying, firmer in set, and much closer to what Plat seems to describe.

Candied whole oranges simmering in clear sugar syrup for Sir Hugh Plat's Oranges after the Portugal Fashion
Whole oranges simmering in sugar syrup. Plat’s method creates both candied fruit and marmalade in one showpiece.

Why This Recipe Matters

Plat’s preserved oranges are a perfect example of early modern English banquet culture. By the late 16th and early 17th centuries, elite tables used sugar, preserved fruits, marchpane, comfits, and molded sweets to display wealth and skill. These foods were often served in a banquet course, not necessarily as the main meal, but as a refined display of delicacy, hospitality, and status.

The phrase “after the Portugall fashion” is especially interesting. Portugal was strongly associated with citrus, sugar, maritime trade, and fashionable imported luxuries. Sweet oranges were sometimes linked with Portuguese trade and cultivation, while bitter oranges remained especially useful in preserves and marmalades because of their peel, acidity, bitterness, and natural pectin. In a recipe like this, the name signals more than geography. It suggests refinement, foreign fashion, and an expensive style of sweetmaking.

It is also worth remembering that “marmalade” did not always mean the soft breakfast spread we know today. Early marmalades were often stiff fruit pastes, closer to quince paste or fruit cheese. Plat’s instruction that the oranges should slice “like a hard egg” makes much more sense when we imagine a firm, sliceable citrus paste tucked inside the candied peel.

Historical Recipe

To preſerue Orenges after the Portugall faſhion. Take Orenges & coare them on the ſide and lay them in water, then boile them in fair water til they be tender, ſhift them in the boyling to take away their bitterneſſe, then take ſugar and boyle it to the height of ſirup as much as will couer them, and ſo put your Orenges into it, and that will make them take ſugar. If you haue 24. Orenges, beate 8. of them till they come to a paſte with a pounde of fine ſugar, then fill euery one of the other Orenges with the ſame, and ſo boile them again in your ſirup: then there will be marmelade of orenges with your orenges, & it will cut like an hard egge.

- Sir Hugh Plat, Delights for Ladies (1609)

Modernized Transcription

To preserve oranges after the Portugal fashion: core each orange on the side and soak them in water. Boil them in clean water until they are tender, changing the water during boiling to reduce their bitterness. Then boil sugar to a syrup, enough to cover the oranges, and put the oranges into it so they take sugar. If you have 24 oranges, beat 8 of them to a paste with a pound of fine sugar, then fill each of the remaining oranges with that paste. Boil them again in the syrup. Then there will be marmalade of oranges within your oranges, and it will cut like a hard egg.

Bitter Oranges vs. Sweet Oranges

If you can find them, Seville oranges, also sold as bitter oranges, sour oranges, marmalade oranges, or sometimes naranja agria, are the best choice for this recipe. They are more bitter than supermarket navel or Valencia oranges, but that bitterness is exactly what makes the preserve work. The sharpness balances the sugar and gives the finished confection a much more complex flavor.

Bitter oranges also behave better in the kitchen. Their peel is well suited to candying, and their higher pectin helps the marmalade filling set firmly. Sweet oranges can certainly be used, and I include a sweet-orange adaptation below, but they tend to produce a softer, juicier filling unless the pulp is drained and cooked down.

Factor Seville / Bitter Oranges Sweet Oranges
Historical fit Best choice Modern adaptation
Flavor Bittersweet, complex, aromatic Milder and sweeter
Pectin Higher, firmer set Lower, softer filling
Best use Historical recreation and feast display Accessible home version

Where to look: Seville or sour oranges are often seasonal, usually appearing in winter. Try Latin American groceries, Mediterranean or Middle Eastern markets, specialty produce shops, or online citrus growers. If you see “marmalade oranges,” those are usually exactly what you want.

Humoral and Feast Notes

In early modern food theory, oranges were often understood as cooling and drying, with bitter or sour oranges especially valued for cutting richness and stimulating appetite. This makes them a sensible banquet sweet after heavy meats, sauces, and rich dishes. The sugar, while luxurious, was also treated as useful in preservation and digestion, not merely as indulgence.

For a feast table, these oranges work beautifully as an entremet, subtlety, or banquet-course confection. They can sit among marchpane, comfits, candied peels, preserved fruits, wafers, or hippocras. They are especially effective because they do not immediately announce themselves as food. They invite the diner to ask: “Is that decoration?” And then the feast begins to talk back.

Renaissance Candied Fruit, Roots & Flowers (Markham, 1623) — Step-by-Step + Modern Method

Sugared plums on a tray—Renaissance-style candied fruit.
Sugared Plums (Renaissance method)

Originally published: 2015  •  Updated: 2025-10-24

Context. This post expands on Gervase Markham’s early-17th-century candying method from The English Huswife (1623), part of his famous “banqueting-stuffe”—the delicate sugarwork served at the end of elite meals. Candying preserved seasonal produce for winter and created jewel-like sweets for feast courses and subtleties. Below you’ll find Markham’s original text and a carefully tested modern method I use for SCA feast work.

Comfits of Anise and Fennel – Medieval Candied Spices & Seeds (A Sweet Treat from the Past)

Comfits—candied spices & seeds—served as sweet digestives and table decoration in late medieval & Renaissance feasts.

Comfits – Medieval Candied Spices & Seeds (How to Make Historic Comfits)

Originally published 9/15/15 / updated 10/1/2025
Please note this correction: gum arabic and gum tragacanth are not the same substance. I originally conflated them—mea culpa, and thank you to the reader who flagged it.

Baronial 12th Night Comfits

Comfits were often served at the end of a feast as a digestive, to perfume the breath, and to decorate subtlety dishes and table settings. Aromatic seeds such as anise, fennel, or caraway were built up with repeated coats of sugar syrup—sometimes tinted with beet, spinach, or saffron. Almonds, ginger, and cinnamon splinters appear in later sources as well. You can still buy descendants of these sweets today (think Jordan almonds and pastilles), but handmade comfits are more delicate and—yes—tastier.

Italian (Medieval) – Finnocchio dolce verde- Sweet Green Fennel (Candied Fennel Stalks) (Comfits and Candies)

 

Plates of Candies and Comfits waiting to be served 


Domenico Romoli's "La Singolare Dottrina," published in 1560, is a comprehensive guide for cooks and maîtres d'hôtel, offering insights into the selection, preparation, and service of various foods and wines. In its fourth book, Romoli presents detailed menus for each month, including the "Banquet of January." This banquet showcases a variety of dishes suitable for the winter season, reflecting the culinary traditions of 16th-century Italy.


Sweet Green Fennel from Domenico Romoli's Banquet of January


Domenico Romoli's La Singolare Dottrina (1560) offers a fascinating glimpse into Renaissance cuisine for those who love diving into historical recipes. This culinary guide, written by Romoli—nicknamed Panunto—details elaborate feasts for every month of the year. Among the dishes featured in the Banquet of the Month of January is Finnocchio Dolce Verde, or Sweet Green Fennel, a unique Renaissance treat that transforms humble fennel stalks into candied delights.


A Taste of 16th-Century Italy


Fennel was a staple in Italian Renaissance kitchens, prized for its digestive properties and aromatic qualities. This particular preparation, which candies the fennel stalks in sugar syrup, reflects the era's fascination with preserving flavors and enhancing natural sweetness. The result is a delicately flavored confection, perfect for pairing with cheeses and wine or simply enjoying as a sweet snack.


The Recipe: Sweet Green Fennel (Candied Fennel Stalks)


Yield: About 3/4 cup candied fennel and 1 cup syrup


Ingredients:


  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup water
  • 5 to 6 ounces of fennel stalks, cut on the diagonal into thin sticks (about 1 1/2 cups)

Instructions:


  1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner.
  2. Prepare the syrup: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar and water. Stir until the sugar dissolves.
  3. Candy the fennel: Add the sliced fennel stalks to the syrup and reduce heat to medium. Cook until the fennel stalks become translucent.
  4. Strain and bake: Strain the fennel stalks, reserving the syrup for future use (it's great for cocktails or drizzling over desserts). Spread the syrup-coated fennel slices in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet.
  5. Dry the fennel: Bake for about 30 minutes, then separate any sticking slices. Continue baking for 30 minutes or until the fennel is dry yet slightly sticky.
  6. Cool and serve: Allow the fennel to cool completely before serving or storing.

Bringing History to Your Table


The candied fennel from Romoli's Banquet of January offers a glimpse into the refined tastes of Renaissance Italy. Its delicate sweetness and herbal notes make it a versatile addition to modern dishes—try it as a garnish for cheese boards, an elegant topping for desserts, or even infused into a winter tea.

By recreating historical recipes like this one, we can appreciate how Renaissance chefs balanced sweetness, texture, and aromatic flavors. Next time you're in the kitchen, why not step back and savor the flavors of a 16th-century banquet?

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Kitchen Adventures – Pickled Cabbage ((German) Wilthu machenn eynngemacht Crautt)


As part of Appolonia's vigil feast, this recipe for pickled cabbage was included. It was chosen because it could easily exist on a dayboard and did not require refridgeration. This recipe can be found in "Ein Kochbuch aus dem Archiv des Deutschen Ordens" (A Cookbook from the Archives of the Teutonic Order), a culinary manuscript published in the 15th century.

Original Text:

"So seudt weysse Heuptt und ein zweythell Sennffs und das dritthell Hoengs und die selbing mach undereinander mitt Wein und thu darein Koemel und ein des genug und leg dan des gesotten Kraut darein und gibe es kalt. also magst auch priesen die Seudt mitt Wrczenn und gyb sy hin."

Translated Text: If you want to make pickled cabbage: "Boil white cabbage heads, take two parts mustard and one part honey, mix them with wine and add caraway. It's enough, put the boiled cabbage into it and serve it cold. You can also season the broth and serve it."

Ingredients:

  • 1 large head of cabbage (or 2 smaller ones)
  • 9 oz stone-ground mustard
  • 4 oz honey
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds

Instructions:

  1. Boil the cabbage until just tender. It should be soft but not mushy.
  2. In a saucepot, mix the stone-ground mustard, honey, white wine, and caraway seeds. Bring to a slow boil for about 5 minutes.
  3. Peel leaves from the cabbage head.
  4. Pour the sauce over the cabbage and chill.
  5. Serve cold and enjoy this delightful fusion of history and flavor.

Glossary:

  • Weysse Heuptt: White cabbage
  • Sennffs: Mustard
  • Hoengs: Honey
  • Koemel: Wine
  • Wrczenn: Caraway

Sources

"Königsberg Cookery Book." Florilegium.org, Florilegium.org, https://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-MANUSCRIPTS/Konigsberg-art.html