“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.
Sources: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare, 1570 (Book II, cap. 193); Odile Redon, Françoise Sabban, Silvano Serventi, The Medieval Kitchen, 1998.
Mushrooms were a popular ingredient in Renaissance Italy, eaten in fast-day dishes and served alongside roasted meats. This recipe for Fungi di Monte (“mushrooms of the mountain”) comes to us from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental 1570 Opera. Redon adapts it into a clean, modern version while preserving its essential spicing and method.
Historic Recipe (Scappi, 1570)
Per cuocere funghi di monte in più modi.
Dopo che saranno ben nettati, si cuociano in acqua calda, & si lascino scolare; poi si facciano soffriggere con cipolla trita, olio, sale, pepe, canella, garofali, & altre buone spetiarie. Si possono anco cuocere con burro fresco, & cacio parmigiano, & similmente si possono friggere in pastello.
Translation
To cook mountain mushrooms in several ways.
After they are well cleaned, cook them in hot water and let them drain; then fry them with chopped onion, oil, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and other good spices. They may also be cooked with fresh butter and Parmesan cheese, and likewise they may be fried in batter.
Une Vinaigrette (Beef & Onions with Wine-Ginger Sauce)
Torta d’Aglio (Garlic Torte) – Renaissance Savory Pie with Cheese, Garlic & Spices
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.
Context
Une Vinaigrette appears in medieval French sources and was translated by Terence Scully (1998).
The dish layers beef (or lamb) with onions and serves it in a sauce of red wine, broth, breadcrumbs, and warming spices—ginger, grains of paradise, pepper, saffron, and vinegar.
The result is both hearty and sharp, showing the medieval palate for savory meats balanced with spice and sour notes.
Humoral Qualities
In humoral theory, beef is heavy, hot, and dry, suited to those with strong digestions or balanced by moistening and cooling elements.
The onions and wine add heat and sharpness, while the vinegar offers a cooling, cutting quality to aid digestion.
The dish would have been considered appropriate in a main roast course, but could also appear earlier to stimulate appetite.
Provenance
The recipe for Une Vinaigrette comes from Le Viandier, one of the most important medieval French cookbooks.
Traditionally attributed to Guillaume Tirel (called Taillevent), master cook to King Charles V of France, the text survives in several manuscripts from the late 14th and 15th centuries.
It reflects the refined cooking of the French court, where sauces of wine, vinegar, and warming spices balanced the heaviness of roasted meats.
Terence Scully’s 1998 edition (The Viandier of Taillevent, University of Ottawa Press) provides a critical edition of the extant manuscripts and the English translation used here.
Original French
Une vinaigrette. Prenez buef ou mouton et coupez en pièces,
puis mettez-les à rostir au gril.
Prenez oignons et taillez par rondelles,
et friez en sain de lart bien cuit.
Puis prenez bon vin vermeil et bouillon de buef,
et mettez du pain blanc tosté et broyé pour lier.
Mettez gingembre, graine de paradis, poivre et saffran,
et un petit de vinaigre.
Couliez vostre sausse, et mettez vostre viande et oignons dedans;
ou les servez à part, et la sausse en un autre plat.
This passage is the basis for Scully’s English rendering: beef or mutton, roasted with onions, served in a sauce of red wine, broth, breadcrumbs, ginger, grains of paradise, saffron, pepper, and vinegar.
Original Text & Modern Translation
Original (Scully, 1998)
Modern Interpretation
Take beef or mutton and cut it in pieces, then put them to roast on the grill.
Take onions and slice them into rounds, and fry them in grease until well cooked.
Then take good red wine and beef stock, put therein white bread toasted and ground to thicken it,
and season with ginger, grains of paradise, pepper and saffron, and a little vinegar.
Strain the sauce and put the meat and onions therein; or serve the meat and onions separately,
with the sauce in a dish.
Cut beef or lamb into chunks and roast or grill until done, but not overcooked.
Slice onions into rounds and sauté them in butter, oil, or lard until golden.
For the sauce, simmer red wine and beef broth with breadcrumbs until smooth.
Add ginger, pepper, grains of paradise (or allspice), saffron, and a splash of vinegar.
Strain the sauce and serve it either mixed with the meat and onions,
or on the side as a dip. Excellent served on its own, or with rice or pasta.
Torta d’Aglio (Garlic Torte) – Renaissance Savory Pie with Cheese, Garlic & Spices
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.
This savory pie highlights gentled garlic — blanched to soften its sharpness, then blended with fresh cheese,
butter, and warming spices. Adapted from Martino’s 15th-century Libro de arte coquinaria, the dish balances
flavors in line with Renaissance cooking theory and humoral practice.
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