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Showing posts with label historical recipe reconstruction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label historical recipe reconstruction. Show all posts

Hunigbæe Moran: Reconstructing Anglo-Saxon Honeyed Roots from the Leechbooks to Mary Savelli

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Hunigbæe Moran: Reconstructing Anglo-Saxon Honeyed Roots from the Leechbooks to Mary Savelli

Honeyed roots served beside Beren Briw and Hriðer Smeamete, the second course of the reconstructed Ceilidh XVI Anglo-Saxon feast.

Hunigbæe Moran entered my kitchen more than twenty years ago as one of the simplest dishes in Mary Savelli's Tastes of Anglo-Saxon England: carrots boiled until tender, then coated with butter, honey, salt, and a little ginger. It was served in the second course of Ceilidh XVI in March 2003 beside Hriðer Smeamete and Beren Briw.

Of the three dishes, the carrots seemed the least complicated. They were also among the most successful. Honeyed carrots have been served at SCA feasts for decades, and I can attest that this particular combination has persuaded more than one confirmed carrot-hater to eat carrots willingly.

But simplicity can hide difficult questions.

Did Anglo-Saxons actually cook carrots with butter and honey? Where did the ginger come from? And when Mary wrote that the Leechbooks described plants boiled in butter and honey, how closely did her finished carrot dish follow the surviving evidence?

The answer turned out to be far more interesting than I expected.

No surviving Anglo-Saxon recipe says, in so many words, "take carrots, boil them, and glaze them with butter, honey, and ginger." But carrots or carrot-like roots do occur in Old English medical literature. Vegetables are cooked in butter. Beet is explicitly cooked in butter and honey and eaten hot. Ginger occurs in the same dietary world. And when we follow carrot cookery forward into the later Middle Ages, carrots begin appearing directly with honey and ginger.

Mary's dish is therefore not a recovered Anglo-Saxon recipe. It is something more interesting: a modern composite reconstruction whose individual pieces can be traced surprisingly close to the period.

Why This Article Matters

  • It preserves Mary Savelli's influential honeyed carrot recipe rather than quietly replacing it.
  • It identifies an actual carrot or moru broth in Bald's Leechbook.
  • It separates the vinegar mentioned beside that passage from the carrot preparation itself.
  • It identifies the much stronger Lacnunga evidence for beet cooked directly in butter and honey.
  • It explains the slippery Old English vocabulary surrounding carrots and parsnips.
  • It follows carrot, honey, and ginger into later medieval recipes without backdating those recipes into Anglo-Saxon England.
  • It offers a more conservative honeyed-root reconstruction while preserving the SCA version that inspired the investigation.
Historical Integrity Statement

No complete culinary recipe titled Hunigbæe Moran has been identified in the surviving Anglo-Saxon corpus. The title should be treated as the inherited modern name of Mary Savelli's reconstruction. Old English sources do, however, preserve moru in a broth, distinguish carrot and parsnip terminology in glosses, and preserve an edible preparation of beet cooked in butter and honey. Ginger is known in the Anglo-Saxon medical corpus but is not directly paired with the honeyed beet preparation. Later medieval sources provide increasingly explicit evidence for carrot combined with honey, ginger, and other spices.

The Feast That Brought Hunigbæe Moran to Give It Forth

Hunigbæe Moran was served at Ceilidh XVI on March 29, 2003. The second course consisted of stewed beef, barley pottage, and honeyed carrots. The menu drew heavily upon Mary Savelli's Tastes of Anglo-Saxon England, published at a time when practical books devoted specifically to Anglo-Saxon cooking were comparatively scarce.

The feast was first recorded on Give It Forth in 2015, twelve years after it was cooked. By then some of my original notes and redactions had disappeared, but the menu and several recipes survived. Returning to that feast in 2026 has become a kind of culinary archaeology. Instead of asking whether each dish is simply "authentic" or "inauthentic," I have been returning to the sources and asking what each ingredient can actually tell us.

Read the original Ceilidh XVI feast record.

Mary Savelli's Reasoning

Savelli explained the dish by noting that the Leechbooks contained preparations in which various plants were boiled in butter and honey. She then cited Anthimus for the observation that carrots were good when well boiled.

She also added a personal observation that is historically useful in a completely different way: at the time she was writing, honeyed carrots were a familiar way of serving carrots within the SCA.

That last point is not evidence for Anglo-Saxon cuisine. It is evidence for the history of historical cooking.

Recipes acquire traditions of their own. By the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries, honeyed carrots had become part of the practical vocabulary of early-period SCA feasts. They were inexpensive, easily scaled, easy to hold for service, compatible with meat and grain dishes, and very popular with diners.

The question is whether Savelli's historical reasoning can still be defended.

Surprisingly, much of it can.

First Problem: What Is a Moru?

The vegetable vocabulary is not as tidy as a modern grocery aisle. Old English moru and related compounds can occupy the uncomfortable territory between what modern English calls a carrot and what it calls a parsnip.

The Bosworth-Toller dictionary records several revealing examples. The compound wealh-moru or "foreign root" can be glossed as carrot or parsnip, while another Old English gloss makes an even more interesting distinction:

Wylisc moru – carrot
Englisc moru – parsnip

That is extremely useful evidence, but it does not mean every appearance of moru can automatically be translated as a modern carrot. The Latin vocabulary presents similar difficulties. Pastinaca could be used for roots that later translators have identified as carrot, parsnip, or both.

For that reason, this article uses "carrot" when a source or scholarly translation identifies the plant that way, while retaining "carrot/parsnip-type root" where the identification remains uncertain.

The Missing Carrot: Bald's Leechbook

The most useful discovery came from Bald's Leechbook.

In a dietary remedy concerned with a severe spasm or hiccup attributed to cold, the text offers several warming preparations. Among them appears the short phrase:

mintan broð oþþe moran

Literally, the passage gives something along the lines of "mint broth or moru." Bosworth-Toller cites this passage under broþ, and modern scholarship has likewise discussed it as mint or carrot broth.

That gives us something important that Savelli's short explanation did not make obvious: a carrot or carrot/parsnip-type root really does occur in an Old English broth preparation.

It is not a feast recipe. It is medical dietary advice. But it establishes that the root was not merely listed as a medicinal plant to be ground into an ointment or bound onto the body. It could enter an edible liquid preparation.

But Were the Carrots Cooked in Vinegar?

This passage contains a small trap.

Vinegar does appear immediately nearby. The longer instruction offers wild celery seed with wine or vinegar, followed by mint broth or moru, then cumin or ginger and other alternatives.

Because the ingredients sit so close together on the page, it would be very easy to remember the passage as "carrots with vinegar." But the grammar does not clearly attach the vinegar to the moru.

The safer reading is:

  • wild celery seed with wine or vinegar;
  • mint broth or moru;
  • cumin or ginger as additional warming alternatives.

So Bald's Leechbook gives us evidence for carrot or moru broth. It does not give us a secure recipe for vinegar-glazed carrots.

That distinction matters because reconstruction becomes unreliable very quickly when neighboring remedies are allowed to collapse into one imaginary dish.

The Strongest Evidence Is Not Carrot at All

Then the Lacnunga changes the entire discussion.

Among its dietary remedies are preparations that look remarkably culinary. One tells us to boil hyssop in butter with radish, elecampane, and barley meal. Another gives beet cooked in butter and eaten hot. And one particularly important preparation directs the cook to:

seethe beet in butter and honey until it is as thick as porridge, and eat it hot.

That is the piece of evidence Savelli's honeyed carrots needed.

Not because it proves that Anglo-Saxons prepared carrots that way. It does not.

It proves that an edible vegetable preparation using butter + honey + prolonged cooking + hot service is directly preserved in an Old English medical collection.

Suddenly the central technique of Hunigbæe Moran is no longer a modern flavor combination searching desperately for a historical excuse. It is a documented Anglo-Saxon-period food treatment applied by Savelli to a different root.

Can Medical Food Tell Us Anything About Dinner?

A medical manuscript is not a household cookbook, and that distinction should remain visible. A preparation prescribed for illness cannot automatically be promoted to the feast table.

At the same time, food used medicinally still had to exist within a recognizable culinary world. A patient could be instructed to eat beet cooked in butter because beet, butter, cooking vessels, heat, and the act of eating cooked vegetables were familiar things.

Recent work by food historian Debby Banham is especially useful here. Banham has argued that some of the dietary instructions preserved in the major Old English medical collections deserve to be considered among the earliest culinary recipes written in English or in England. These texts preserve cooking processes as well as medical theory: boiling, simmering, broths, pottages, fats, seasoning, and instructions for eating foods hot or otherwise prepared.

The medical setting therefore tells us how the food was being used in the particular passage. It does not make the cooking method imaginary.

Anthimus: Boil the Root Well

Savelli also cited Anthimus, whose sixth-century De observatione ciborum, usually translated as On the Observance of Foods, belongs to the late antique dietary tradition that fed into early medieval learned culture.

Anthimus writes of pastinacae that they are good when well boiled and eaten. If they are fried, he advises parboiling them first.

The botanical identification of pastinaca is not perfectly secure. Translations and historical dictionaries move between carrot and parsnip. For our purposes, Anthimus gives us supporting evidence for the culinary treatment rather than a complete recipe: the root may be boiled until properly cooked before further preparation.

That is exactly the first step in Savelli's recipe.

What About the Ginger?

Ginger is where Mary's recipe becomes more interpretive.

Ginger was known to Anglo-Saxon medical writers. Indeed, gingifran appears in the same broader Bald's Leechbook passage that contains moru. That does not mean the text tells us to season the carrot with ginger. The ingredients are presented as alternatives within a warming remedy.

So we can say:

  • ginger was known;
  • ginger appears in the same dietary-medical context as moru;
  • but no surviving Anglo-Saxon instruction found here combines the two.

For the strictest reconstruction, I would therefore leave the ginger out.

But ginger becomes much more interesting when we move forward in time.

Working Forward: When Do Honeyed Carrots Become Explicit?

Rather than forcing the later ingredients backward, we can reverse the investigation. If honey, ginger, and carrots eventually appear together in documented recipes, when does that happen?

Thirteenth-Century al-Andalus: Carrot + Honey + Ginger

The anonymous thirteenth-century Andalusian cookbook preserves a medicinal carrot paste. The carrots are cooked, drained, combined with a very large quantity of clarified honey, cooked to a paste, and seasoned with ginger, galingale, cubeb, and probably clove.

This is not a side dish of glazed vegetables. It is closer to an electuary, preserve, or confection.

But it gives us an unmistakable medieval combination:

carrot + honey + ginger

That does not prove continuity from Anglo-Saxon England. Al-Andalus belonged to a different culinary, medical, agricultural, and trading world. Its importance here is comparative. By the thirteenth century the flavor combination Mary chose is demonstrably at home within medieval food medicine.

Sixteenth-Century Transylvania: Honeyed Carrots Become Dinner

By the sixteenth century the resemblance becomes much closer.

The Prince of Transylvania's Court Cookbook includes a preparation translated as "Wild carrot parsnips." The cook is told to peel the carrot, cut it into cubes, put it into water, and boil it. When it is half cooked, honey, black pepper, and saffron are added. Oil is added at service. The same treatment may be used for wild carrots and parsnips.

Elsewhere in the same collection, lamb is cooked with carrots, honey, and spices.

Now we are no longer looking at a medicinal carrot paste. We are looking at carrots participating in ordinary savory cookery with honey and spices.

Structurally, the first recipe is remarkably close to Savelli:

  1. prepare the carrots;
  2. boil them;
  3. add honey and seasoning;
  4. finish with fat;
  5. serve.

The fat is oil rather than butter, and the spices are pepper and saffron rather than ginger. It is also sixteenth-century Transylvanian evidence, not tenth-century English evidence. But the culinary logic is unmistakable.

Watching Mary's Recipe Assemble Itself

Source Root Honey Butter/Fat Ginger/Spice What It Supports
Anthimus, 6th c. Pastinaca No Frying after parboiling No Boiling root vegetables well
Bald's Leechbook Moru Not with root Not in this instruction Ginger nearby as an alternative Carrot/parsnip-type root in an edible broth
Lacnunga Beet Yes Butter No Direct evidence for an edible vegetable cooked in butter and honey
13th-c. al-Andalus Carrot Yes No butter Ginger, galingale, cubeb, clove Explicit carrot + honey + ginger combination
16th-c. Transylvania Carrot/parsnip Yes Oil Pepper, saffron Boiled honeyed carrots as savory cookery
Mary Savelli Carrot Yes Butter Ginger Modern synthesis of the earlier strands

Seen this way, Hunigbæe Moran stops looking like a recipe someone invented simply because honey tastes good on carrots.

Mary appears to have braided together several historically defensible strands:

  • root vegetables could be boiled;
  • moru appears in an Old English edible broth;
  • Old English medical texts preserve vegetables cooked in butter;
  • the Lacnunga explicitly preserves beet cooked in butter and honey;
  • ginger was known in the same medical-dietary culture;
  • later medieval sources explicitly pair carrot with honey and ginger;
  • later savory cookery explicitly treats boiled carrots with honey and fat.

The mistake would be presenting all of those strands as though they came from a single Anglo-Saxon recipe.

They do not.

But as reconstruction logic, they are surprisingly coherent.

Mary Savelli's Hunigbæe Moran

Hunigbæe Moran – Honeyed Carrots

Serves 4–6

  • 1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ⅛ teaspoon ground ginger

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and cook the carrots until tender, approximately 10–15 minutes. Drain well.

Melt the butter in the saucepan and stir in the honey, salt, and ginger. Add the carrots and toss gently to coat. Heat through and serve warm.

How the Ingredients Stand Up

Carrots

Supported with caution. Old English moru can denote carrot or parsnip-type roots, and one glossing tradition explicitly distinguishes a foreign carrot from an English parsnip. Bald's Leechbook includes moru in an edible broth. The problem is not whether carrots were conceptually available to the text. The problem is identifying exactly which botanical form every occurrence represents.

Butter

Strongly supported as a vegetable cooking fat. The Lacnunga gives both beet cooked in butter and a preparation of beet cooked in butter and honey.

Honey

Directly supported with beet. Honey is not attached to the moru broth, but the butter-and-honey vegetable treatment itself is explicit.

Salt

Ordinary and plausible. Salt occurs repeatedly in Old English dietary preparations. The specific honeyed beet instruction does not require it, so it remains a reasonable culinary adjustment rather than a necessary part of the source-led version.

Ginger

Period-known but indirect for this dish. Ginger occurs in the Anglo-Saxon medical corpus and beside the broader remedy containing moru. It is not directly combined there with carrots, butter, or honey. Later medieval carrot-honey preparations make the flavor combination much easier to understand, but they should remain later comparative evidence.

A More Conservative Give It Forth Reconstruction

If I were preparing this dish again specifically as an Anglo-Saxon reconstruction, I would shift the vegetables rather than abandon the dish.

My order of preference would be:

  1. beet, because the butter-and-honey preparation is directly attested;
  2. parsnip, because the Old English moru vocabulary strongly supports the root and the carrot/parsnip boundary is historically slippery;
  3. carrot, which remains a defensible experimental choice and preserves the beloved SCA version.

Honeyed Roots – Evidence-Weighted Reconstruction

Serves 4–6

  • 1 pound beets, parsnips, carrots, or a mixture
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1–2 tablespoons honey, to taste
  • A small pinch of salt, optional

Clean the roots and cut them into manageable pieces. Boil or simmer them until tender. Drain well.

Return the roots to the pan with the butter and honey. Cook gently, stirring or turning the vegetables, until they are thoroughly coated and the honey and butter cling to the surface. Serve hot.

For the most conservative version: use beets and omit the ginger.

For the Savelli/SCA legacy version: use carrots and add a small amount of ground ginger.

Why Beets May Be the Better Reconstruction

There is something wonderfully backward about arriving at a carrot recipe and discovering that beet may be the vegetable we should have been cooking all along.

Yet the flavor makes perfect sense.

Beets are naturally sweet and earthy. Butter softens that earthiness and gives the vegetable richness. Honey deepens the sweetness and creates a glossy finish. Anyone familiar with Harvard beets will recognize the general sweet-earthy logic, although Harvard beets depend upon sugar and vinegar for their characteristic sweet-sour flavor. A butter-and-honey beet is mellower and richer, without the sharp acidic edge.

I can also attest from experience that honey and butter with beets is delicious, assuming one begins on friendly terms with beets.

That makes the Lacnunga preparation particularly intriguing. A direction that can look medicinal and peculiar on the page turns out, when considered as food, to describe a completely sensible way of preparing a root vegetable.

Why Mary's Carrots Still Belong at the Feast

Historical reconstruction is not improved by pretending that every beloved older reconstruction was foolish simply because modern research allows us to draw finer distinctions.

Hunigbæe Moran worked.

It worked as food. It worked at feast scale. It complemented beef and barley. It appealed to people who normally avoided carrots. And it gave SCA cooks an approachable way to put an unfamiliar historical cuisine on the table.

More importantly, Mary's historical instincts were better than the simplicity of the finished recipe initially suggests.

She saw plant foods being cooked in butter and honey. She saw boiled carrot or carrot-like roots in early dietary literature. She knew ginger belonged to the broader spice vocabulary available to early medieval medical writers. She combined those observations into something a modern cook could actually serve.

What we can do now is make the seams visible.

That does not diminish the reconstruction. It tells us what kind of reconstruction it is.

Confidence Level

Overall Confidence: Moderate, with a high-confidence beet version.

  • High confidence: beet cooked with butter and honey and eaten hot.
  • High confidence: butter as a cooking fat for edible plant preparations in the Lacnunga.
  • Moderate to high confidence: moru as carrot/parsnip-type root and its use in an edible broth.
  • Moderate confidence: applying the documented butter-and-honey treatment to parsnips or carrots as experimental reconstruction.
  • Moderate confidence as comparative medieval flavor: carrot + honey + ginger, directly documented later.
  • Low confidence as a specifically Anglo-Saxon combination: carrot + butter + honey + ginger together in one dish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Hunigbæe Moran a surviving Anglo-Saxon recipe?

No complete recipe with this title has been identified. Mary Savelli's honeyed carrots are a modern reconstruction assembled from early culinary and medical evidence.

Does Bald's Leechbook really mention carrots?

It contains moru in a passage describing mint broth or moru. Historical dictionaries and modern scholarship allow carrot as a translation, although Old English root terminology can overlap with parsnip.

Does Bald's Leechbook say to cook the carrots in vinegar?

Not securely. Wine or vinegar belongs to the preparation of wild celery seed immediately before the mint broth or moru phrase. The proximity makes the association easy to remember, but the vinegar should not simply be transferred to the carrots.

Do we have an Anglo-Saxon vegetable cooked in honey and butter?

Yes. The Lacnunga preserves an edible preparation of beet cooked in butter and honey until thick and served hot. That is the strongest direct evidence behind this reconstruction.

Was ginger known?

Yes. Ginger occurs in Old English medical material. What we do not have is a surviving Anglo-Saxon instruction explicitly seasoning the honeyed beet or moru with ginger.

When do carrots appear directly with honey and ginger?

A thirteenth-century Andalusian medicinal carrot paste combines boiled carrot with honey, ginger, galingale, cubeb, and clove. It is geographically and culturally separate from Anglo-Saxon England, so it is comparative evidence rather than proof of continuity.

Are there later savory honeyed carrot recipes?

Yes. The sixteenth-century Prince of Transylvania's Court Cookbook instructs the cook to boil carrots, add honey, black pepper, and saffron, and finish the dish with oil. The same treatment is suggested for wild carrots and parsnips.

Which vegetable should I use?

For the closest reconstruction of the surviving butter-and-honey instruction, use beet. For an experimental root variation, parsnips are an excellent choice. For the traditional Savelli/SCA dish, use carrots.

Should I add ginger?

For Savelli's version, yes. For the most evidence-weighted Anglo-Saxon version, I would omit it. The ginger remains a historically informed comparative addition rather than a directly documented seasoning for the honeyed root.

What This Recipe Taught Me

I began this investigation expecting Hunigbæe Moran to be one of the more questionable dishes in the Ceilidh XVI menu. Honey-glazed carrots seasoned with ginger felt almost suspiciously convenient: familiar enough for a modern feast, pleasant enough that no one would complain, and easily explained by saying that all the ingredients were known.

That is not where the evidence led.

Bald's Leechbook gave us the missing moru. The Lacnunga gave us beet cooked in butter and honey. Anthimus gave us the boiled root. The same Old English medical world gave us ginger, although not attached directly to the vegetable. And later medieval recipes showed carrot, honey, ginger, spice, and fat gradually coming together in ways increasingly recognizable to the modern cook.

Mary's carrots are still not a surviving Anglo-Saxon recipe.

But neither are they merely fantasy food dressed in an Old English name.

They are a reconstruction built by taking several fragments of historical practice and asking what might happen if they met in one pot. More than twenty years later, we can refine that reconstruction. We can make beet the first choice, parsnip the second, and carrot the familiar third. We can remove the ginger when we want to stay closest to the direct evidence, or retain it when serving the Savelli version that became part of SCA feast culture.

Most importantly, we can explain why.

That is the real value of returning to these old recipes. The goal is not to prove that we were foolish twenty years ago. It is to see how much more clearly we can read the evidence now.

And in this case, I would happily put the honeyed roots back beside the beef and barley.

Continue Exploring the Anglo-Saxon Feast

Sources and Further Research

Old English Medical and Dietary Evidence

  • Cockayne, Thomas Oswald, ed. Leechdoms, Wortcunning, and Starcraft of Early England. 3 vols. London, 1864–1866. Lacnunga, volume III.
  • Kesling, Emily. Medical Texts in Anglo-Saxon Literary Culture. Boydell & Brewer, 2020. Digital text.
  • Banham, Debby. "The Earliest English Culinary Recipes: Dietary Advice in Old English Medical Texts." Journal of Medieval History 49 (2023): 711–724. Article.

Old English Language and Plant Terminology

Early Comparative Evidence

Later Medieval and Early Modern Carrot Comparisons

Mary Savelli and the Give It Forth Feast

About This Reconstruction

Historical cooking rarely gives us the comfort of a complete recipe waiting patiently to be translated. For Anglo-Saxon England especially, the evidence often survives in medical texts, vocabulary lists, agricultural records, archaeology, and recipes transmitted from older Mediterranean traditions. Reconstruction requires keeping those categories separate while allowing them to speak to one another.

Hunigbæe Moran is a particularly good example. The carrot dish itself is modern. The roots beneath it are not.

The surviving evidence gives us an edible moru, beet cooked in butter, beet cooked in butter and honey, boiled pastinaca, and period-known ginger. Later medieval evidence demonstrates that carrot, honey, ginger, spice, and fat could indeed form coherent culinary combinations. Mary Savelli brought those strands together into a practical feast dish. The Give It Forth reconstruction separates them again, identifies their individual strength, and then puts them back on the table with the uncertainty clearly labeled.


AI Transparency

This historical reconstruction was researched, tested where noted, written, and edited by Yonnie for Give It Forth.

Artificial intelligence assisted with source discovery and comparison, editorial organization, formatting, proofreading, readability, and search optimization. All historical interpretation, reconstruction methodology, personal cooking observations, source selection, and final editorial decisions remain the author's own. Where evidence is comparative, uncertain, or drawn from a later period, that uncertainty is stated within the article rather than hidden.

Interpreting Medieval Recipes: My Reconstruction Process

It has been quite a while since I have posted anything or done any period cooking. It's summer and that means lots of time out of doors with the family before school starts. However, I have been asked to teach a class on my method of interpreting period recipes at a meeting or a future event. In lieu of a post on cooking, I thought I would create a post regarding the steps that I take when I do an interpretation. Any feedback is welcome.

The first step is to locate a recipe that you are interested in interpreting. For me, many of those are the recipes from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin published by Oxford University Press, London 1888. I am blessed with having a copy of this book in hardback, one of the very last gifts my mother gave to me prior to getting ill with congestive heart disease and passing twelve years ago. This book is very special to me and each recipe that I interpret is a memory of cooking with my mom from the time I was old enough to stand at the stove and stir a spoon. At the time I received this edition I didn't know *how* to interpret these recipes. What took me many years to teach myself I am hoping to pass on to you in a few paragraphs.

When I first started interpreting recipes I gave myself some ground rules.

  • The first is not to interpret based on what others have written. This is easier said than done, as I have discovered several times that what I have read and interpreted is vastly different from what others have done. 
  •  The second rule is to find ingredients which can be purchased locally and would fall within a reasonable budget should the recipe be created for a large (100+) feast. Oftentimes, when an ingredient is difficult (or impossible) to locate or is prohibitively expensive to purchase for me, and/or ultimately for a large group of 100 diners, I will research a suitable substitute for that product. This has the benefit of creating a "mostly" period recipe but substitutions can change the final product. 
  • The third rule I adopted was to make "sample" sizes of recipes that could be easily adapted to feed a larger dining crowd. This meant that I had to spend some time in researching typical portion sizes for catered, large group events. 
  • My last rule is to use sources as close to the primary source as I could find. Most of the sources I use are secondary sources because obtaining primary documentation, that is, original works that have not been interpreted, analyzed or evaluated by another person is impossible for me.  However, secondary resources can be found relatively easily nowadays and when I use a secondary resource I tend to bolster that information from multiple secondary resources. 

What are primary, secondary and tertiary sources for research? Primary sources of information for research are most often the original documentation often times associated with the time period you are researching.  These documents or artifacts have not been analyzed, evaluated or interpreted.  An example of a primary document would be an original manuscript.


Courtesy of the British Library

Secondary sources used for research are primary documents or artifacts which have been analysed, evaluated amd/or translated. They have been created after the creation of the primary source they are based upon.

Example: The Forme of Cury, by Samuel Pegge Courtesy of Project Gutenberg

TARTLETTES. XX.II. X. Take pork ysode and grynde it small with safroun, medle it with ayrenn and raisons of coraunce and powdour fort and salt, and make a foile of dowhz  and close the fars þerinne. cast þe Tartletes in a Panne with faire water boillyng and salt, take of the clene Flessh withoute ayren & bolle it in gode broth. cast þerto powdour douce and salt, and messe the tartletes in disshes & helde the sewe þeronne.

Tertiary sources consist of information which has been collected from primary and secondary sources and is subject to further analysis, interpretation or evaluation.  Sometimes secondary sources can also be categorized as tertiary.  

Example: Cunnan - Tartletes Recipe Courtesy of Gwynfor Lwyd and the Cunnan Wiki

Modern Recipe

Take veal, boiled and grind it small. Take hard boiled eggs and grind it with whole prunes, dates cored, pinenuts, raisins, whole spices and powdered, sugar and salt. Make a little coffin, fill them and bake and serve it forth.

Ingredients

500g veal
6 whole pitted prunes
8-10 whole pitted dates
100g raisins
50g pine nuts
2 hard boiled eggs
1/2 tsp mace
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp nutmeg
6 whole cloves

Method

Slice the veal into strips and boil it with a dash of vinegar and a pinch of salt. Hard boil and cool two eggs. While they boil, mince the prunes, dates, raisins and pine nuts and mix in a bowl. Mince the veal and mash the eggs when they are done, and add them to the bowl. Then add the spices and mix the lot thoroughly.

Using your favorite short crust pastry, after first greasing the muffin tray, line the molds with the pastry. Spoon in the filling, and cover with more pastry.

Cook in a medium oven for 25 minutes (fan forced convection) or a bit longer in a conventional oven. When the pastry is golden brown it is done. Serve it first (not fourth, that's too long to wait!).

Once I have located a recipe that I am interested in interpreting I read it several times before I begin the process of breaking it down. I want to make sure that I have a good understanding of what I have read.  I think this is where many cooks begin to start to assume that a set of instructions on a medieval document will have a specific end result. I have been surprised several times that my final interpretation was not what I assumed the end product would be like.  This is part of the reason I do not research other interpretations at this point.  Just like I did with locating a recipe I set up some ground rules and assumptions for myself in regards to how to interpret a recipe.

Cooks of the time period that I am researching may not have been be able to or did not have time to write down their own sets of instructions.  Instead what is written in any documentation from the period are a set of instructions as witnessed by or spoken to the author of the manuscript.   This theory is based on my assumption that before everyone was required to learn how to read or write, many specializations (cooking for example) were passed from a Master, to a Journeyman, to an Apprentice either orally or through example--the actual work.  In order to become specialized you devoted your educational experiences to that specialty. It is my assumption that medieval cooks most likely had only rudimentary experience with writing but were by no means "illiterate" in their vocation.

It is also an assumption that the amount of work required to run a larger household where such instructions might have been written and were necessary was time consuming and that there would not have been enough time for an individual to do their daily tasks and write a manuscript.

Lastly, there is the assumption that much like today, a medieval cook's recipes and techniques were considered "trade secrets" and that they would not have been readily written down for fear of sharing those secrets. Who does not have a grandmother who won't give you an entire recipe but always leaves a little something out??? Mine did and to this day I am unable to find that ingredient in my grandmother's lemon cake that made it so special to me.

I do my very best to make absolutely no assumptions on what the final product will be, but instead will cook the instructions that I have interpreted as they have been written in order to best replicate the dish that the original author may have intended.  Also, if I have run across another reconstruction of the recipe I will not allow that preconception to influence my understanding of what I am interpreting.

Part of the difficulty that I had interpreting recipes from the books was a lack of understanding what I read. In almost every recipe that you will run across from period you will find a word or two that you do not understand.   Fortunately, the internet which I use extensively in my research has opened up a world of understanding for me. Our example recipe today is Tartelettes from The Forme of Cury, which we are fortunate enough to have a copy provided by the British Library of the original manuscript (above).   In the event that I would have been unable to locate this copy of the manuscript, there are also multiple secondary sources available online or in printed form as well.

Here are some links to some of my favorite sites for period sources. Please note that there is a lot of crossover between sites and that some links may be broken or no longer viable.  This is certainly not the be all and end all of the list, nor is it in any particular order for me. These are the sites I find myself most frequently visiting when researching.



My Interpretation: 

Tartlett
 - Take pork y-sode and grynde it small with saffron, medle it with ayren and raisons of coraunce and powdre fort and salt and make a foile of dowgh and close the fars (the)einne. Cast (the) tartlette in a panne with fair (broth?) boillyng and salt take of the clene flesh with oute eyren and boile it in gode broth cast (the) powder douce and salt and messe the tartlet  in dishes and helde the the (broth?) thereone

This interpretation contains several terms I am unsure of; y-sode, ayren, raisons of coraunce, powdre fort, foile of dowgh, fars, a word I think might be broth but these old eyes can't make it out clearly enough to determine what it is. This is when it is time to turn to other resources for help.  In this case, I know of at least two other interpretations of the above recipe.  The first is located at project Gutenberg. 

 The Forme of Cury, by Samuel Pegge Courtesy of Project Gutenberg

TARTLETTES. XX.II. X. Take pork ysode and grynde it small with safroun, medle it with ayrenn and raisons of coraunce and powdour fort and salt, and make a foile of dowhz  and close the fars þerinne. cast þe Tartletes in a Panne with faire water boillyng and salt, take of the clene Flessh withoute ayren & bolle it in gode broth. cast þerto powdour douce and salt, and messe the tartletes in disshes & helde the sewe þeronne.

The second is located at Daniel Myers Medieval Cookery. 

This is an excerpt from Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390) The original source can be found at MedievalCookery.com

.xlix. Tartlettes. Tak pork y sode & grynde hit smal with safroun, medle hit with ayroun & raysouns of coraunce & poudour fort & salt, make a foyle of dowh & close the fars therinne, cast the tartlettes in a panne with fayre watur boillyng & salt, tak of the clene flesche withoute ayroun & boyle it in gode broth cast therinne poudour douce and salt & messe the tartlettes in in dysches & held the sew theron.

While I am left with some confusion about a few of the culinary terms, I have at least one question answered--the unknown word that I was unsure of and thought might be broth is water; "Cast (the) tartlette in a panne with fair (broth?) boillyng".  The next step is to define the words I don't understand. You will note that I have (the) in parenthesis several times in my interpretation.  This is because Middle English the.svg   is the middle English abbreviation for the word "the" something I learned in earlier research and it appears several times in the manuscript instructions for tartlettes.

I have my favorite locations for researching medieval culinary terms I may not understand.  These include in no particular order the following sites, which have proven to be immensely helpful. As part of my interpretive process I will research the culinary terms, etymology of a word, and cooking techniques if I am unsure of them.


Definitions

y-sode - boiled
ayren - eggs
raisons of coraunce - currants
powdre fort - strong powder - ?? Recipe?
foile of dowgh - a thin leaf or sheath of dough -- ?? Recipe?
fars - to stuff
pouder douce - sweet spice powder
sew - a Middle English word referring to a broth or liquid ranging from juice through gravy to stew

Researching the definitions lead to two more areas to research before I can start on interpreting the recipe.  The first area is powder  fort, a strong spice powder which will play a large part in the final outcome of the dish in regards to the flavor of it.  The second is the "foile of dowgh", which will also play a part in the dishes final outcome. The best location to look for this information is in the Forme of Cury, so that is where I will start.

Neither Powder-forte nor the dough instructions are included in the Forme of Cury. They are referenced several times, however in the manuscript and the recipe reference below for Loseyns gives the clue to how to make the dough.  Loseyns are dough that is boiled in broth and served with cheese. Because it is similar to the dough used in the tartlettes I am assuming that the dough that is required in this recipe is similar to the dough used in the recipe I am researching.

Loseyns. XX.II. IX. Take gode broth and do in an erthen pot, take flour of payndemayn and make þerof past with water. and make þerof thynne foyles as paper with a roller, drye it harde and seeþ it in broth take Chese ruayn grated and lay it in disshes with powdour douce. and lay þeron loseyns isode as hoole as þou mizt. and above powdour and chese, and so twyse or thryse, & serue it forth. Forme of Cury (England, 1390)

Loseyns. XX.II.IX Take good broth and do in an earthen pot, take bread flour and make thereof paste with water, and make thin foils as paper with a roller, dry it hard and boil it in broth take  ruayn cheese (most likely a semi-soft cheese made in the autumn from cow's milk) grated and lay it in disshes with powder douce and lay theron loseyns boiled as whole as you may and above powder and cheese, and so two or three and serve it forth.

The next step is to find out what powder-forte is.  It is commonly believed to be a blend of spices which include strongly flavored spices such as pepper, cinnamon, cloves, cubebs, galingale, ginger, grains of paradise, long pepper, mace and nutmeg.  The recipe that I found which I liked best is LXXIII. Specie fine a tute cosse. from Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (14th/15th c.)

LXXIII. Specie fine a tute cosse. Toi una onza de pevere e una de cinamo e una de zenzevro e mezo quarto de garofali e uno quarto de zaferanno.

Black and strong spices for many sauces. Translated recipe by Louise Smithson (known in the SCA as Mistess Helewyse de Birkestad, OL) Black and strong spices to make sauces. Take half a quarter (of an ounce) of cloves, two ounces of pepper and an (equal) quantity of long pepper and nutmeg and do as all spices (grind).

The next step is to create my interpretation of the recipe and to create the ingredient list.  If you have difficulty with the Roman numeral conversion (I know I did) the site I use is found here. When I do my interpretations I try to create a recipe that is easy to understand, so I write it in modern English keeping the original interpretation above it.  When I create the ingredient list I am only doing so for a serving for two as if it were a main dish served in any meal. I want the recipes to be easily scale-able so that they can be increased from 2 to 4 to 8 to however many servings are needed. In order to do this I needed to research quantity calculations for catering large groups.  From the research that I did I have come up with this plan that I use when creating large scale feasts: 1/4 to 1/2 cup starch, 1/2 to 1 cup of pottage, 1/2 cup simmered, boiled or stewed, vegetables and approximately 1/4 pound of meat per dish per person.  This is the plan I use for any succeeding courses.  Remember-we are eating medieval serving up several dishes per course, and several courses in a meal.  Your diners can pick and choose what they wish to eat, and how much they wish to eat of it, but for serving these are the portions that go out to the table.  Approximate serving sizes per table of 8 would be 2-4 cups of grain or grain based dish (eisands or guissell), approximately 2 pounds of meat, and 2-4 cups of vegetables and 1 1/2 loaves of bread.  Some excellent websites to get you started on researching for quantity cooking are listed below.


Knowing how much to serve for a table of eight diners is how I determine what the quantities of my ingredients are going to be.  

My interpretation: 


.xlix. Tartlettes. 
Tak pork y sode & grynde hit smal with safroun, medle hit with ayroun & raysouns of coraunce & poudour fort & salt, make a foyle of dowh & close the fars therinne, cast the tartlettes in a panne with fayre watur boillyng & salt, tak of the clene flesche withoute ayroun & boyle it in gode broth cast therinne poudour douce and salt & messe the tartlettes in dysches & held the sew theron.

49. Tartlettes - Take pork boiled and grind it small with saffron, mix it with eggs and currants and powder forte and salt, make a thin sheet of dough and close the stuffing there in, cast the tartlettes in a pan with fair water boiling and salt, take of the clean flesh without eggs and boil it in good broth, caste therein pouder douce and salt and mess the tartlettes in dishes and held the sauce there on.

Ingredients List

Boiled Pork - ground
saffron
eggs
currants
strong spice powder
salt
dough - flour, water
salt
broth
sweet spice powder

Fortunately this recipe doesn't contain any difficult to find or impossible to get items, however, if it did the resource that I would use to locate an acceptable alternative would be the Cook's Thesaurus. This resource has been invaluable to me especially when looking for alternatives to fish! Fresh fish is difficult to locate where I live and some ingredients which were commonly enjoyed, such as porpoise, are illegal where I live.  Alternatively, some items such as quail, squab or pheasant would be prohibitively expensive to purchase even for a smaller event.  Whenever I substitute a medieval ingredient for something easier to obtain or more cost effective I make sure to explain the reasoning behind it in my blog post.

Once I have created my interpretation and have a list of ingredients that I am going to use I start creating the modern recipe.  Remember-I'm only cooking for two people, despite the fact that I usually use my family and friends and their friends as guinea pigs to taste test and could be taste testing up to seven or eight people ;-) This is why we often have spoon wars and arguments over who gets the last bite.  I only need a small amount.

Recipe

1/2 pound ground pork - remember the recipe calls for pork that has first been boiled and then minced (ground small).  Assuming a quarter pound of meat per person two people would be 1/2 pound of ground pork.  Half of which (1/4) will be made into the stuffing and the other half will be cooked in the broth ( take of the clean flesh without eggs and boil it in good broth). To make the broth that is needed, boil the pork in 1 cup water or stock.  I would use chicken or a mix of 50/50 beef and chicken because I do not normally have pork stock on hand.

Pinch of saffron - for two people you probably only need two or three strands, because you do not want the saffron flavor to overpower your stock.

3/8 egg beaten - the reality is that an entire egg is going to be too much egg for the small amount of stuffing we are making. So what I would do is beat the egg and add just enough of it to the mixture to make a good stuffing making note of it in the interpretation, or, I might separate the yolk from the white and use the yolk only.

1 tsp. currants - 1 tsp. of Currants for a quarter pound would mean a little over a tablespoon of currants for a full pound of meat.   This is where I use the phrase "or to taste" because some folks might like a little more currant with their pork and others (like me) would like less-wayyyy less--as in half that amount for me thank you very much!

1/8th tsp. Powder Forte - another "or to taste" area.  Usually for a quarter pound of meat, 1/4th of a tsp. of spice is too much, but you still need some flavor, so an 1/8th of a tsp. would work here, and if it is expanded out that would 1/2 tsp. of spice for 1 pound of meat.

1/4 tsp. salt - Salt is flavor, and this might seem like a lot of salt to add to 1/4 pound of meat, however, if you were to scale this up, that would be 1 tsp. to 1 pound and that is the amount of salt that most people are used to adding to their meat.

1 cup broth - if you have boiled the pork in water you have already created a flavorful broth. On average, 1 cup of soup is the amount served at a large catered event, hence 1 cup of broth. If you are using store purchased broth you may not need additional salt, however, if you have made your own stock or are using the broth made by boiling the pork you might need to add salt to taste.

1/8 tsp. sweet spice powder - again, this is "to taste".

For the dough - we are looking to make basic eggless pasta or noodle dough.  Use your favorite recipe or you can use the one below

1 cup flour
1/4 cup water
1/4 tsp. salt


Boil the pork in the water until thoroughly cooked, drain the pork reserving the broth.  Take half of the pork and add eggs, currants, salt and powder forte.  Please note, I beat the whole egg and then added enough egg to the pork to make the stuffing stick together easily.  I know...how do you get 3/8th s of an egg??? Set the stuffing aside and mix flour with water and salt to create your dough. As an alternative, you could substitute won ton wrappers for the dough. I did!

To create your dough mix together flour and salt and add water until it forms stiff dough.  Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and knead for approximately 10 minutes, cover and then allow it to rest for 20 minutes. After the dough has rested, roll it out to approximately 1/16th of an inch thick and then cut into large squares or circles as you desire.

Stuff the dough with the filling being careful not to overfill and then seal the dough tightly.  I used the tines of a fork to make a pretty crimp on the edges. Drop into the broth; add additional salt and the pouder douce and serve once they are completely cooked.

Converting recipe quantities seems like a mystery but once you know the number of servings you wish to serve, and you know how many servings the recipe you are using serves the conversion is quite simple.  To find your conversion factor (the number that you are going to multiply or divide to scale up or scale down) simply divide the desired number of servings by the original number of servings. 

For example, this recipe was created to make two servings as a main meal or up to four as a side dish.  The number of servings is 2, but I want to serve 8.  I would simply divide 8 by 2 and my conversion factor is 4.  The converted recipe would then be:

2 pounds ground pork
Pinch of saffron 
1-2 eggs beaten
1 tbsp. or more of currants
1/2 tsp. powder forte
1 tsp. salt
4 cups broth
4 cups flour
1 cup water
1/2 tsp. powder douce

If I have the recipe for 8 and I want to serve six, I would divide 6 by 8 and the conversion factor would be 0.75.  I would then multiply each of the ingredients by the conversion factor of 0.75 to get the correct scale for six servings. The new recipe would look like this.

1 1/2 pounds ground pork 
Pinch of saffron 
1-2 eggs beaten 
3/4 tbsp. or more of currants 
1/3 tsp. powder forte 
3/4 tsp. salt 
3 cups broth 
3 cups flour 
3/4 cup water 

1/3 tsp. powder douce 

For a quick conversion of any recipe you wish to try use the Recipe Converter Calculator.  

Once I have created a recipe that follows the instructions I cook up my sample batch and taste test it.  I have hijacked people working around the house, my kids, their friends, unsuspecting family members and the neighbors.  If the recipe can pass a modern taste test then I did well.  I request commentary and watch reactions. There have been a few times I have made something that I or one of the taste testers did not enjoy.  I make sure to include that in my blog posts.  

Sometimes I have to go back and tweak something based on commentary, which I will do, making note of the changes. Once the interpretation has been finalized, and *before* creating a blog post I compare with my peers.  This recipe is a great example of the reason to compare.  The instructions as interpreted create a broth with meat and meat filled dumplings. One of my peers created a meat filled tart, while another created a dish of dumplings with meat sauce. 

When I am checking my work against my peers and I find that I have done something vastly different from what they have created I ask myself several questions.  Where did I deviate from their interpretation? Why did I deviate? How does the deviation impact the final interpretation? What was the deviation? Do I need to research this further?  

A good example of this process is my interpretation of Arbolettys, which created a cheese "soup" instead of the more often found scrambled eggs with herbs. Since I found the recipe in the pottages section of 
 Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin amidst a selection of recipes that create custard or pudding like dishes I believe that the deviation is cooking the eggs till they form a curd similar to scrambled eggs rather then forming a smooth dish.  Further research is needed to determine what the final outcome of this recipe should be.


Finally having come to the end of the process I create a blog post. In creating the post I attempt to include a little bit of history relating to one of the primary ingredients as well as including the interpreted instructions into a modern day recipe.

I hope that this post has given you some ideas on directions that you can go to start interpreting your own recipes. I would love to hear your thoughts, suggestions or ideas. Feel free to comment below.